Nopala is ready for visitors, with a pair of comfortable hotels and at least three acceptable comedor restaurants. The economical lodging choice is Hotel Palacio del Chatino (Hidalgo 55, tel./fax 954/586-0000, $20 s, $30 d), whose bright red-and-white brick decor you probably already saw from atop the palacio municipal. The physician-owner has polished his little six-room hotel (three on top and three on the bottom, all around an interior garden) into a first-rate establishment. Rooms are clean and comfortably furnished with hot water, fans, and big double beds. The upper ones especially have plenty of air and light and look out on valley and mountain views on two sides. They’re hard to beat, especially this far out in the country. Reserve ahead through the owner, Dr. Elfego Zurita.

The other lodging is the Posada Nopala (Prolongación Calle Hidalgo s/n, tel. 954/586-0032, tabachinpaul [at] gmail [dot] com, $90 d), owned by American Pablo (Paul) Nunn Cleaver, also owner of Tabachín Apartments (www.tabachininfo.com) on Playa Zicatela in Puerto Escondido. Posada Nopala’s hacienda garden-style layout consists of four luxuriously built rooms complete with charming baroque architectural details, including carved solid-hardwood doors. These rooms share one elaborately luxurious onyx and tile bathroom. Another, larger house, which includes the dining room and the owner’s quarters, has two similarly elaborately decorated rooms with their own baths. Amenities include a big orchard in the back with all the mandarin oranges and mangos you can eat (in season). Reserve through the owner, Pablo Nunn Cleaver, in Puerto Escondido (Apartmentos Tabachín del Puerto, Av. del Morro s/n, tel. 954/582-1179 or 954/582-1664) or in Nopala at Posada Nopala. Ask Pablo about Nopala tour arrangements, including local sights and coffee farms.