El Mogote people take justifiable pride in their museum, housed in a gorgeously restored old hacienda, the former ranch home of a local founding cacique (political boss) family. Its intriguing displays include shell jewelry, ceramic and stone burial offerings, a reconstructed tomb, a pre-Columbian adobe wall, a photo of a danzante monolith (still situated in the ruins) like those found at Monte Albán, and exquisite ceramic sculptures. Outstanding among these is the amazing diablo enchilado, with a half-scowling, devilish grin, exactly like a scary red Halloween demon.
Note: If you arrive unannounced, you may find the museum closed. However, someone is usually in charge, and, if available, he or she will open it for you. To inquire, say “Donde está el encargado del museo?” (“Where is the person in charge of the museum?”) The Presidencia Municipal (town hall) is usually the best place to make your inquiry.
© Bruce Whipperman from Moon Oaxaca, 5th edition