Sola de Vega
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San Miguel Sola de Vega (pop. 13,000), diminutive capital of the remote, sprawling governmental district of the same name, is the main service stop on Oaxaca–Puerto Escondido Highway 131. The town, 59 miles (95 km) south of Oaxaca City (99 miles/159 km north of Puerto Escondido), presides over a lush mountain-valley checkerboard of corn, cane, and cattle.
The lovely sabino-shaded Río Sola de Vega ripples right past the town, crossed by quaint but practical suspension footbridges. It looks as if the people have plenty of fun, spending about half their time in the water.
Camping by tent or RV appears promising in shady spots by the river. Get permission from authorities at the presidencia municipal at the town plaza, about three blocks north from the highway.
If you arrive on Sunday, Sola de Vega’s traditional market day, be sure to visit the local tianguis around the town plaza.
Food and Accommodations
A few stores near the plaza can supply basic groceries. For cooked food, try one of the many country comedores by the highway or, if you prefer, the dining room of the plain but clean Hotel Aguirre (tel. 951/574-0046 or 951/574-0047, $15 s, $20 d, $30 t; dining room 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, $2–6), on the highway. Its 15 rooms come with hot-water showers. You will not generally need a reservation, unless you’re arriving late (perhaps after 9 p.m.).
Drivers, fill up with gasoline at the Pemex station on the north side of town, since gasoline is scarce in most of the country along Highway 131.
© Bruce Whipperman from Moon Oaxaca, 5th edition
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