Be sure to consider a homestay in Moyogalpa and surrounding villages. In town, the best budget-traveler option is El Indio Viejo (three blocks east of the dock, one south, tel. 505/2569-4262), offering 17 dorm beds for $3 each, $10–14 for a private room for up to four people with clean beds, private bath, and fan.

This is where backpackers turn for the familiar funkiness extended from Granada’s popular Hospedaje Central; take a hammock or camp outside for less than $2. The bar/comedor has a hip world music soundtrack, satellite TV, movie lounge, washing machine and book exchange. Volcano hiking arrangements ($10–15 per group) can be made with Will. Artists are welcome to add to the organic murals and may even receive free lodging.

The rooms at Hotel Casa Familiar (half a block south of main street, tel. 505/2459-4240) are similar and the establishment is clean and comfortable.

Hotel Restaurant La Bahía (located across from the Shell Station, tel. 505/823-5743, $4 pp) offers second-story rooms with tons of light and air, and a view of Concepción from the back porch.

Hotelito Aly (a few blocks up from the dock on the left, tel. 505/2569-4196) has 11 rooms set around a garden patio and a decent restaurant that serves three meals. Rates are $6 per person with shared bath, $7 private bath, and up to $40 for nicer rooms with air-conditioning.

Easily recommendable is Hotel Ometepetl (a few blocks up from the dock on the right, tel. 505/2569-4276, $12–25 private bath, a/c) whose staff is friendly and can help you with the logistics of preparing your trip (guides, cars, etc.). They have a gift shop on-site and accept credit cards.

And the newer American Café & Hotel (100 meters up the hill on the right, tel. 505/8645-7193, $30 d) has five spotless and spacious rooms with high ceilings, hot water, and gringo-style breakfasts.