León is laid out in the traditional colonial grid system with the central park and cathedral at the center. It sprawls impressively in all directions. The main bus terminal and market are nearly a kilometer northeast of the main plaza, and Barrio Subtiava is 12 blocks due west.

A zona rosa of sorts, is developing along 1 Calle SO as it extends westward from the southwest corner of the plaza. Most of the town’s nightlife is condensed here; university campuses are primarily just north of the plaza.

Getting Around León

To get anywhere within the city, taxis charge $0.75 during the day and $1.25 at night. Small city buses and converted pickup trucks also crisscross León and charge about $0.25; ask about your destination before getting on.

Don’t miss León’s answer to London’s double-decker bus tours: El Bus Pelón (The Bald Bus) runs 30-minute rides around the city, weekends only, from about 5–10 p.m., sometimes featuring live chichero music. Line up at the southwest corner of the central park with your own booze. The locals love it.