Riverhead lies on the shores of Peconic Bay, right between the North and South Forks. The Suffolk County seat since 1727, Riverhead was once a thriving commercial center that benefited from the area’s many farms.

In more recent years, it has suffered its share of economic depression, but is now experiencing something of a renaissance, thanks in large part to its spiffy new aquarium, the Atlantis Marine World.

The downtown is also home to a number of lovely old brick buildings, while its revitalized waterfront is a good place for a summer stroll.

The Suffolk County Historical Society (300 W. Main St./Rte. 25, 631/727-2881, www.suffolkcountyhistoricalsociety.org, 12:30–4:30 p.m. Tues.–Sat., admission by donation) is an excellent place in which to get a sense of Suffolk County’s past. This large, rambling museum is filled with eclectic treasures. Among them are a good-size collection of Indian artifacts, Colonial furniture and ceramics, and some nice examples of early crafts. Also on site is an excellent bookstore.