Italian
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Explore Further
Restaurateurs George Germon and Johanne Killeen started the culinary fire in Providence years ago with
Al Forno (577 S. Main St., Fox Point, 401/273-9760, alforno [at] aol [dot] com, 11 a.m.–9 p.m., $28–34), a Northern Italian spot serving everything from mouthwatering thin-crust pizza and roasted clams in spicy sausage to freshly made raspberry tart.
An institution on Federal Hill, Angelo’s Civita Farnese (141 Atwells Ave., 401/621-8171, www.angelosonthehill.com, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Thu.; 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri.–Sat.; noon–9 p.m. Sun., $3–12) has been feeding hungry crowds in a family-style atmosphere for more than 80 years. Thankfully, they haven’t changed their prices much in the meantime—heaping portions of pasta and Italian meat dishes are rarely more than 10 dollars. If that’s too rich for your blood, the restaurant also offers rock-bottom daily specials.
Sauce and dough made daily makes Federal Hill Pizza (200 Atwells Ave., 401/273-7452, www.federalhillpizza.com, 11 a.m.–9p.m., $4–20) popular among pizza-lovers. Gourmet Italian toppings include kalamata olives, roasted peppers, and goat cheese; depending on your mood, you can choose outdoor seating or the dark-tinted interior, which includes a full bar and cigar humidor.
Italian for “bread and wine,” Pane e Vino (365 Atwells Ave., 401/223-2230, www.panevino.net, 11 a.m.–10 p.m., $11–31) is too modest a description for the excellent rustic fare at this romantic, candlelit ristorante. The emphasis is on brushed-up versions of Neapolitan cuisine, such as veal scaloppine with prosciutto and Madeira tomato sauce and rigatoni giganti—that is, large tube pasta with a pink cream sauce. Not that the bread (made locally at Olga’s Cup and Saucer) or the wine (with two dozen Italian varieties by the glass) are anything to complain about either.
At Raphael’s Bar Risto (1 Union Station, 401/421-4646, www.raphaelbarristo.com, noon–11 p.m. daily, $18–29), bright paintings compete with clients’ bright jewelry; the bar is filled with twentysomethings dressed to the nines and men in designer suits. Just as impressive are the pastas—particularly unusual creations like trenette with rich cheese and dried strawberries. The fried zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta is also memorable.
Sex and the City meets The Sopranos at Mediterraneo (134 Atwells Ave., 401/331-7760, www.mediterraneocaffe.com, 12 p.m.–10 p.m., $18–34), a modern Italian eatery taking up prime real estate at the gate to Federal Hill. The city’s bigwigs come here as much for the atmosphere as for the food; the French doors opening out onto the street make for exceptional people-watching. The menu is well-prepared but standard upscale fare: filet mignon, pork tenderloin, and surf ’n’ turf.
© Michael Blanding and Alexandra Hall from Moon New England, 2nd Edition
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