Providence has turned what was once its black eye into a selling point: Now that the mafia that centered here has largely disappeared, the city basks in its romantically corrupt image, bolstered by its ex-mayor turned felon Buddy Cianci. Tales of the Providence Renaissance, however, are not exaggerated. Few cities in the country can claim either the kind of history-steeped beginning or modern revitalization that Rhode Island’s capital has seen.

In addition to being one of the nation’s oldest towns, it’s also one of its most forward-thinking. The population, currently about 175,000, is a mix of everyone from Portuguese immigrants and third-generation Italian families to bluebloods and international students. And when Providence celebrates its newfound renaissance—with a regular event called Waterfire that turns its two rivers into the center of a blazing (literally) party of art and music— everyone is invited.

The rest of the time, the city’s thriving creative culture is thanks in large part to its partnerships with the three exceptional universities that call it home: the Ivy League powerhouse Brown, a liberal arts university; Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), an art and architecture school with graduate and undergraduate programs; and Johnson & Wales culinary school. Each of the three is considered among the very best in its field, and each continues to partner with the city on a multitude of projects—from restaurant openings and galleries to public art displays—that add to the city’s creative element.

That effort is intertwined with the restoration that the city and its architecture (one of the country’s biggest and best shows of colonial structures) have undergone in the last several decades. In some cases that has meant simple investment and cleanup efforts. In others, it has meant enticing new blood and energy into the neighborhoods—in one such example, artists and performers were given tax breaks to live in renovated downtown buildings. The result brought new life to the historic entertainment district near the renowned Trinity Repertory Theatre and the Providence Performing Arts Center.

Many residents also credit Buddy Cianci himself. During his five terms (when he wasn’t being investigated or charged by the police for assaults or mafia ties) Cianci oversaw the plan to uncover the city’s two rivers, build elegant bridges around them, and otherwise beautify the downtown area. For this, the citizens of Providence were duly grateful; even while under indictment, Cianci’s approval rating never dropped below 60 percent.

The Best of Greater Providence

• Providence Performing Arts Center
• Brown University
• Roger Williams Park Zoo
• Waterfire
• Slater Mill
• Herreshoff Marine Museum