Canoeing the St. John
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Compared to the Allagash, the St. John River is more remote, less crowded, and more difficult. For those reasons, it’s best attempted by experienced canoeists or those traveling with a registered Maine guide. The traditional point of access is Fifth St. John Pond, accessible by a logging road north of Rockwood on the west side of Moosehead Lake.
From there, the river begins its wild ride northward, taking in several Class I and II rapids in its 114-mile course. The river saves the best for last—right before the take-out point in Dickey are the aptly named “Big Rapids,” a Class III.
Because the river isn’t dammed, it is only navigable by paddlers for a brief period in May and June. The best time to hit the river is in early May before the black flies hatch—otherwise, bring plenty of Deet. Like the Allagash, the river is lined by a number of well-maintained camping areas, available for an $8 fee per night.
© Michael Blanding and Alexandra Hall from Moon New England, 2nd Edition
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