Of the two rivers, the Allagash is both more popular and offers more variety, with a trio of large lakes, Chamberlain, Eagle, and Churchill, leading off the route from its beginning on the edge of Baxter State Park. (Be sure to look for the two rusted-out steam locomotives that used to belong to the Eagle Lake and Umbazooksus Railroad and now sit on the edge of Eagle Lake.)

If it’s white water you are after, you might want to put in further up the river at Churchill Dam, where the rip-roaring Chase Rapids (a Class II) kicks off the second half of the waterway. From here, the river is a good mix of narrow lakes and rushing river currents. The waterway culminates in the spectacular 40-foot-high Allagash Falls (which of course you’ll have to portage around), right before the intersection with the St. John River.

The entire waterway is 92 miles long and takes about 7 to 10 days to complete, depending on your bicep strength and penchant for daydreaming. The river doesn’t “ice-out” until about May 15, so the paddling season lasts from mid-May to mid-October. Remember, however, that this is Maine, so cold-weather clothing is a must at all times of the year.

The best times for a trip are May and June when the flowing meltwater makes for faster currents. If you venture out during the warmer months of July and August expect plenty of company; you’d do well to get up and set up camp early, lest you find yourself having to paddle another five miles downstream to find an unclaimed site.

Access is by private roads owned by paper companies; these can be entered via Greenville or Millinocket, or farther north from Ashland. Stay alert, as logging trucks can come barreling down the road without warning, and they have right-of-way at all times. The waterway has nine different entry points, including put-ins at Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake, Churchill Dam, Umsaskis Lake, and Round Pond.

Along the way are some 20 well-maintained campsites, for which there is an $8 fee per site per night, payable to the North Maine Woods ranger when you enter the river. All canoeists are required to register with a ranger at first opportunity.