Those just looking for a quiet island stay and some swell day hikes can set up a base in comfort at the Rock Harbor Lodge (906/337-4993 May–Sept. or 866/644-2003 Oct.–Apr., http://rockharborlodge.com, $150–300 d). Lodge rooms are pretty much your basic motel-style accommodations, but they sit right at the water’s edge with a glorious view of nearby islands and the open waters of Lake Superior.

You’ll pay for this little slice of civilization in the wilderness, but the rate does include three meals at the lodge dining room. (Dinner often features fresh lake trout from the restored Edisen Fishery.) Guests also have use of an adjacent day lodge with a comfy wood-burning fireplace. Nearby housekeeping cottages include small kitchens, one double bed, and two bunk beds. While you can call about reservations year-round, the lodge is only open Memorial Day–Labor Day. Reservations are a must.

The Rock Harbor Lodge dining room (servings at 7 a.m., noon, and 5:30 p.m., $10–33) is open to the public, and its meals taste like a gourmet feast after a week of freeze-dried fare. The Marina Store (9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily) in Rock Harbor carries a good supply of food, camping supplies, film, fuel, and pretty much any other important item you forgot to pack.