Heading west from Villas Telamar, the paved road eventually gives way to dirt and after a few bumpy kilometers reaches the Garífuna village of San Juan. Services in town include El Pescador restaurant and four cabins run by a small women’s group, each with two bedrooms (they can sleep up to six), an equipped kitchen, and a porch with two hammocks. The cabins are quite nice, and a very good deal (US$40/night). To reserve, call Benita Diego (tel. 504/3271-4652) or Esmeralda Arzú (tel. 504/3378-2723).
One kilometer before reaching San Juan is the spectacular 14-bedroom private home rental El Cocal (tel. 504/545-2660, U.S. tel. 561/212-6924, www.elcocalhouse.com), a wooden beach mansion built along the sea, complete with kayaks and a tennis court. The base rate is US$360 per night for six bedrooms (come with friends!), with a minimum three-night stay.
© Chris Humphrey and Amy E. Robertson from Moon Honduras, 5th Edition