Tucked into the Golfo de Amatique are the Cayos Zapotillos, a collection of beautiful patches of sand, palm trees, and reef whose ownership is unclear. The water around the cays is exceptionally clear, and the reef is in good condition and teeming with marine life. The cays—Hunting Cay, Lime Cay, Nicholas Cay, Raggedy Cay, French Cay, and two others—are claimed by Honduras, Belize, and Guatemala.

Belize has erected a police station on Hunting Cay, the largest of the islands, so it seems to have taken charge of the situation for the moment. A tourist official is also usually present. All visitors must register at the police station, show a zarpe paper (an international permit for a boat, available at the port captain’s office in Omoa or Puerto Cortés), and pay US$10 for each visitor. Everyone must have a passport.

No facilities exist on the cays, so bring camping gear. Roberto Alvarez at the Hotel Playa on Playa Cienaguita, near Puerto Cortés, runs snorkeling and scuba day trips, which include the entry fee. Less expensive trips might also be negotiated with fishermen in Omoa. Keep in mind the zarpe paper costs around US$40, and gas is expensive.