The hilltop Cabañas del Bosque (in Las Mangas, tel. 504/406-5782, www.cangrejal.com) offers simple wood cabins (each with two rooms) with private bathrooms, fans, and wide porches with breathtaking views of the mountains and jungle. The electroducha hot water showers were getting strained due to the irregular electricity supply, so the goal is to transition to solar-powered water heating, but for now it’s cold water.

Another building, just below the cabins on the hillside, holds a small lounge area and restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner (US$3–4); they are happy to attend nonguests, but call first, so that they can be sure to have supplies on hand.

This community-run project is tied in with Guaruma, a nonprofit youth organization dedicated to creating environmental awareness that can provide visitors with knowledgeable guides to the area. It’s best to book a guide in advance through the office in La Ceiba, especially if you need an English-speaker, but it’s also possible to pop into the youth center (usually staffed) to find a guide. Internet is available in the center for US$0.25 for 15 minutes.

The group has trails up and down the Río Cangrejal, some longer and more demanding, all quite off the beaten path.