Rubi’s Inn (tel. 504/425-3240, US$18 s, US$25 d) on the main road not far from the center of Utlia Town heading toward the old airport, on the ocean side of the road, offers spotless rooms with private baths and hot water. The pretty garden and cute white house with blue trim hide a much newer property behind: a two-story wooden lodge next to the water. Air-conditioning is available for significantly more, and there is a communal kitchen available, as well as picnic tables for eating your meal or relaxing with a beer. There is one “honeymoon suite” on the second floor with refrigerator, microwave, and private balcony over the water for US$38 d. Laundry service is available to guests and nonguests.

Relax Inn (tel. 504/425-3879, US$35 d, US$40 with a/c), across from Camilla’s Bakery and close to several dive shops, has four clean, basic rooms in an attractive wood building, each with refrigerator and hot water. There’s a small private dock leading off the hotel’s porch. The owners live on the property and are known to invite guests for an excellent home-cooked meal from time to time.

The family-owned Trudy’s Hotel (tel. 504/425-3103, US$35 s/d with a/c, US$65 suites with TV, mini-fridge, microwave, and a/c) is a fairly new two-story wood building set along the water’s edge, although rooms face a patch of sand rather than the water. Funky fish murals are painted on the walls, and Adirondack chairs grace the breezeway, perfect for relaxing after a day of diving. Nondiving hotel guests can ride out with divers for a snorkel at no charge.

Conveniently located right in the center of town is Hotel Rose (tel. 504/425-3127, US$16 s, US$26 d with fan, US$5 more with a/c), a decent deal with hot water, fan, and TV, more for air-conditioning. The upstairs terrace has a fine view of the harbor and is a great place to relax in the afternoon and evening.