Situated on a picture-perfect stretch of north-side beach is West Peak Inn (tel. 504/408-3072, U.S. tel. 831/786-0406, www.westpeakinn.com, US$620 pp/week double occupancy, or US$95 pp/night), a collection of rustic but well-equipped cabins (screened-in porches, mosquito nets, fans, private bath) in a low-key and very relaxed setting. Snorkeling, sea kayaking, and hiking are all available at the lodge, and the restaurant serves up tasty seafood and other plates. (Rates include all meals, unlimited use of sit-on-top kayaks and snorkeling gear, hiking, beachcombing, casual fishing from the dock and shore, and boat transport to and from the Guanaja airstrip.)

Some diving is available, but limited to experienced divers—they themselves suggest booking with a dive resort (such as Coral Bay or Bo’s) if you’re looking for a full week of diving. Rates include three meals a day and free transportation to and from the airport. The owners also can organize multiday sea-kayak and camping trips. The showers lack hot water, but the water is warm in the afternoon if it’s been sunny. The entire place runs on energy from solar panels.

The beach hotel Graham’s Place (tel. 504/3368-5495, U.S. tel. 305/407-1568, www.grahamsplacehonduras.com) charges US$100 per person, which includes breakfast, lunch, and airport transportation, and is a great place to relax on a spectacular beach. There’s great snorkeling, including a “natural aquarium”—a large penned-off area in the water where guests can snorkel with fish, turtles, lobsters, and conchs. (Some love it, some hate to see the animals penned.) On land you might spot rabbits, iguanas, and birds. There’s bone-fishing right off the cay, and bottom-fishing and trolling can also be arranged. Graham’s is located on one of the cays off the southern side of Guanaja; water taxis can easily be arranged for those who are coming just for a meal.