San Pedro de Tutule

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Roughly 30 kilometers southwest of La Paz on the road to Marcala, set two kilometers off the highway, is the town of San Pedro de Tutule, a market town for the villages in the surrounding mountains. San Pedro de Tutule, along with the region around La Esperanza, is one of the last bastions of pure Lenca Indians in the country.

Should you find yourself in this lovely, rustic little town, Hospedaje San Pedro (tel. 504/933-0599, US$2 pp) has four basic rooms. The attached restaurant serves a generous plato típico with truly delectable hot pepper–flecked white cheese for US$1.25.

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