Hotel Ilebal Tenam (Calzada 15 de Septiembre, Salida a Chajul, Cantón Simocool, tel. 7755-8039, $7–13 d) has rooms with shared or private hot-water bathrooms and basic furnishings centered around a courtyard. Rooms with private bath have cable TV. The garden sitting areas with thatched-roof shelters for shade are a nice touch.

Nebaj’s attractive, hip hostel is MediaLuna MedioSol (tel. 5749-7450, $4 p/p in dorms or $7 p/p in private room), half a block from El Descanso on 3a Calle, with several amenities, including wireless Internet, a comfortable DVD lounge, a dartboard, Ping-Pong table, and a Mayan sauna in addition to clean rooms. Guests have use of the kitchen and you get the fourth night free if you spend three nights.

Hotel Shalom (corner of Calzada 15 de Septiembre and 4a Calle, tel. 7755-8028, $16 d) has spacious and attractive well-furnished rooms with private hot-water bathroom, cable TV, and wood-paneled walls.

Anexo Hotel Ixil (tel. 7756-0036, corner of 2a Avenida and 9a Calle, $16 d) is basic but clean with rooms centered around a courtyard. All have private hot-water bathroom.

The budget-friendly version of this property is Hotel Ixil (four blocks south of the plaza on 5a Avenida, tel. 7756-0036, $4 p/p) with simple shared-bath rooms.

Hotel Turansa (corner of 5a Calle and 6a Avenida, tel. 7755-8487, $18 d) has a secured parking lot around which are centered 16 clean rooms with private hot-water bathroom and cable TV.

The nicest place in town is Hotel Villa Nebaj (Avenida 15 de Septiembre, just north of the plaza, tel. 7756-0005 or 7755-8115, $26 d), where the comfortable rooms have big wooden beds with Nebaj quilts, private hot-water bathroom, cable TV, and tile floors. There’s also plenty of parking.

My new favorite option is Hotel Santa María (Calle Real, two blocks from the park, tel. 4212-7927 or 4621-9890, www.hotelsantamarianebaj.com, $26 d), built in neo-colonial style and harboring comfortable, clean rooms set round a small courtyard. The friendly innkeepers provide homecooked meals for their guests and there is parking.