If you continue south toward the coast from La Democracia you’ll find Guatemala’s surfing capital, Sipacate. Nowhere near as popular as in Costa Rica or even neighboring El Salvador, surfing nonetheless has some aficionados in this neck of the woods and there are some perfectly surf-worthy waves on the Guatemalan shores.

International travelers are just now starting to get a clue, but for the meantime the lucky few can still surf these waves undisturbed by throngs of fellow wave enthusiasts, despite international travel magazines’ best attempts to make these sites more widely known.

The drive south to Sipacate is almost as pretty as the beaches, with palmettos lining the road on either side of the well-paved, fast highway. Once in town, it should cost you about $1.40 to cross the Canal de Chiquimulilla over to the beaches.

Sipacate’s recommended accommodation, Rancho Carrillo (tel. 5517-1069 or 5413-9395, www.marmaya.com) is on a clean stretch of private beach. There are a restaurant, pool, and bungalows with air-conditioning, private bath, minifridge, and cable TV. The bungalows house up to four people and cost $60 regardless of occupancy. A family-size unit for up to eight people costs $108. Smaller, more basic rooms without air-conditioning but with outdoor hammock on a deck fronting the beach cost $40 d. There are deals available if you’re here Sunday–Thursday.