When to Go

Guatemala has two seasons, rainy and dry. A visit during each has its own distinct advantages. The rainy season usually begins at the end of May, with the summer months marking the early part of the rainy season, which is characterized by short afternoon or early evening showers that usually clear up by nighttime. By September or October, however, the weather is often socked in for days with rain and clouds. If you don’t mind the rains, it makes a great time to visit, as foreign visitors are noticeably fewer during these two months and many hotels offer discounts in hopes of filling their rooms. Some parts of the country, most prominently the Caribbean coast, are rainy throughout most of the year.

The dry season runs from November to early May. December through February are the coldest months, with cold fronts from the north often making their way down to this neck of the woods, bringing temperatures into the mid-60s for daytime highs in mountain areas such as Antigua, Quetzaltenango, and Guatemala City. Things tend to warm up dramatically in March and April before the arrival of the first rains in mid-May. During this time, thick haze from heat, dust, and agricultural burning clouds the views of Guatemala’s stunning mountain scenery, easily viewable during other months of the year.

The high tourist season in Guatemala runs from December to Holy Week (usually in April) with a second high season between mid-June and early September. Europeans on holiday are very much in evidence during this time, as are Salvadorans, for whom Guatemala is a favorite destination during their annual August vacations.

Language study schools in Quetzaltenango and Antigua are usually full with college students during the summer and rates go up accordingly. School lets out in Guatemala during the middle of October, with the local equivalent of summer vacation taking place until January. Families with children tend to take over many of the destinations popular with Guatemalan travelers and flights to Guatemala City are often full with the well to do (and their families) returning from a stateside shopping spree. My favorite time for a visit is between mid-May and mid-June, when the rains have usually arrived, greening up the scenery, and just before the summer high season.

What to Take

As a photographer, I often wish I could pack light, but I find this is usually not the case, as I invariably wind up kicking myself for not having packed some gizmo needed somewhere along the way. If you’re like me, make sure you bring all your photography supplies to Guatemala, as it’s extremely difficult to find necessary items. Professional slide film is available in only one place that I can think of in Guatemala City, though for digital shooters the city’s shopping malls can probably supply most of your needs.

Getting to the basics, keep in mind that Guatemala’s huge variety of ecosystems also means you might find yourself changing clothes more often than a Milan runway model. It’s a good idea to dress in layers. Pack a good assortment of short-sleeve T-shirts, sweaters and/or fleece, shorts, and pants. Shorts are perfectly acceptable in resort and beach towns, but not so much in Guatemala City or large urban areas, where people tend to dress up and the climate isn’t really all that warm. I’m a big fan of synthetic fabrics that are quick-drying and can wick away moisture during strenuous hikes in the backcountry.

Lightweight travel pants might be your new best friend, especially for trips to jungle areas where mosquitoes are usually a concern. Where mosquitoes are rampant, try sticking to lighter colors and bring lightweight shirts with long sleeves you can roll up. This will also keep you cooler under the rays of the hot tropical sun. Guatemala’s mountainous areas can get downright cold, especially after it rains and the damp chill seems to permeate your very bones. Pack a light rain jacket and at least a sweater or two. Also pack plenty of sunscreen, bug spray, and don’t forget a wide-brimmed hat or at least a ball cap.

If you plan on doing some Adventure Hiking, plan to bring everything you need, as rental equipment or that provided by local outfitters is usually not the greatest. These items include tents, sleeping pads, hammocks with mosquito netting, and sleeping bags. If you have one, it’s always a good idea to bring along a water filter for those backcountry adventures. If you should need anything else, Guatemala City has at least one recommended Outdoor Gear shop.

Footwear is an extremely important consideration. For serious jungle hiking, you’ll want to bring high, military-style boots that you can wear in the mud and that will also protect you against snakebites. If you plan on white-water rafting or cave exploration, bring amphibious sandals with a good tread that you can wear on the boat or on slippery cave surfaces. If you plan on checking out the nightlife scene in Guatemala City, bring a good pair of dress shoes, as sneakers are verboten in the city’s trendy nightclubs.

Finally, for visits to remote highland villages with large numbers of poor children, bring pencils, crayons, and other gifts to donate to local schools. You’ll be surprised how something as simple as a writing instrument can bless a child. Packing photos of family and loved ones back home is also a great way to cross cultural barriers with friendly Guatemalans you’ll meet along the way.

© Al Argueta from Moon Guatemala, 2nd Edition. Photos © Al Argueta www.alargueta.com