Preclassic and Classic Period Mayan Sites

You’ll find most of the Mayan ceremonial sites that were at their cultural zenith during these time periods in the country’s northern Petén region. Among the largest and most sophisticated cities from the Preclassic period is El Mirador, which flourished between 200 B.C. and A.D. 150. Numerous discoveries here have led archaeologists to reconsider their previous notions concerning the level of sophistication of the Preclassic Maya. No self-respecting archaeology buff would come to Guatemala without visiting Tikal, at the center of Tikal National Park, a 575-square-kilometer (222-square-mile) area the historical site and surrounding rainforest ecosystem. Farther north is the interesting astronomical observatory at The Ruins of Uaxactún. West of Tikal, after traversing dense rainforests, you’ll come to the sites of Nakum and Yaxhá, the latter of Survivor Guatemala fame. Despite its TV celebrity, it’s still possible to visit the site on a quiet afternoon and have its temple pyramids overlooking a placid lagoon all to yourself.

The island city of Flores makes a convenient base for these trips, particularly those heading to El Mirador, as many of the region’s outfitters have their offices here. It also has grocery stores and a well-stocked outdoor market, which you’ll need to hit up for supplies before heading out into the wilderness. Tikal is easily accessible via a paved road and frequent buses. From there, you can easily add a visit to Uaxactún, about 26 kilometers north along a rugged dirt road. Yaxhá and Nakum, east toward the Belize border, are best reached from the town of El Remate, on the shores of Lake Petén Itzá. Minivans have begun offering service to Yaxhá fairly regularly and at fair prices.

Highland Postclassic Mayan Sites

Real history buffs might want to check out the ceremonial sites found and subjugated by the Spanish at the time of the conquest, thus completing the picture of Guatemala’s pre-Columbian archaeological heritage. When the Spanish arrived in Guatemala, they first secured an alliance with the Kaqchikel, who had their capital in Iximché. The Spanish would eventually establish their first capital on the same site. You can visit the restored ruins of Iximché, very conveniently situated just a few kilometers from the Pan-American Highway running west into the highlands and about an hour from Guatemala City.

With the submission of the Kaqchikels, the Spanish were now free to turn on the K’iche’, whom they met in battle near present-day Quetzaltenango. The K’iche’ invited the Spanish to their mountain fortress at K’umarcaaj, just outside present-day Santa Cruz del Quiché. A plan to trick the Spanish into coming into the city backfired and the K’iche’ were massacred, with their rulers burned at the stake. Nowadays, you can visit the largely unrestored ruins, which are still the site of Mayan rituals and feature a noteworthy underground cave tunnel.

Near the city of Huehuetenango, the inhabitants of the Mam ceremonial site of Zaculeu were done in by starvation after Pedro de Alvarado’s brother laid siege to the city for two months. The ruins have been restored in a way that somewhat resembles what they might have looked like at the time of the conquest.

Northwest of Guatemala City 59 kilometers via a paved road, the ruins of Mixco Viejo were once the Poqomam capital and ceremonial center, falling to Pedro de Alvarado in 1525 after a typically ruthless attack. In addition to temple pyramids, the site has two ball courts decorated with twin serpent sculptures harboring human skulls in their open mouths, a rather unusual embellishment among Postclassic highland sites and further evidence of the Toltec and Aztec influences of the times.

Modern-Day Mayan Villages

You can see the age-old customs of the Mayans’ descendents in Guatemala’s numerous villages. Perhaps the best introduction to Mayan culture is the K’iche’ village of Chichicastenango, famous for its twice-weekly market on Thursdays and Sundays. Here you can also witness Mayan-Catholic syncretism in the whitewashed church or visit the idol of Pascual Abaj, on a hillside just outside of town where Mayans still perform religious rituals, including animal sacrifice. Chichicastenango is a popular day trip and shuttles leave from many of the main tourist towns (Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Panajachel, and Guatemala City) on market days. Continuing farther north into El Quiché department, about five hours from Guatemala City, are the splendid villages of The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, and San Juan Cotzal. Chajul in particular still conserves its traditional flavor and the weavings produced in all three villages are among Guatemala’s finest. West across the Cuchumatanes chain is the traditional Mam village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán, famous for its annual November 1 horse races. You can hike from here to San Juan Atitán, another very traditional village. Todos Santos is most easily accessible from Huehuetenango via a paved road that heads up the mountain before turning into an all-season dirt road. San Juan Atitán is connected to the Pan-American Highway via a rough dirt road heading down the steep mountainside. The Huehuetenango department harbors many other traditional Mayan villages in its northern reaches, including San Mateo Ixtatán, with its church featuring a decidedly funky facade somewhat resembling a giant cake.

© Al Argueta from Moon Guatemala, 2nd Edition. Photos © Al Argueta www.alargueta.com