Birds

Guatemala’s abundant birdlife includes more than 700 different species. Although not nearly as popular a bird-watching destination as Belize or Costa Rica, Guatemala has become increasingly well known among birders now that pristine areas conducive to the activity are no longer the site of skirmishes between army and guerrilla forces, as was the case during the civil war. This has opened new areas to bird-watching and Guatemalans are quickly taking steps to gain some ground in catering to this very lucrative tourism market.

Among the highlights of a visit to Guatemala is the opportunity to spot its rare, endangered national emblem, the resplendent quetzal (Pharomacrus mocino). The quetzal gives its name to the national currency and was revered by the Mayans for its long green tail feathers used in ceremonial headdresses. Quetzals have become increasingly rare because of the loss of their cloud forest habitat, but they still survive on the slopes of the Lake Atitlán volcanoes, parts of the Sierra de los Cuchumatanes, and particularly in the Sierra de las Minas. A forest preserve in Baja Verapaz, known as the Biotopo Mario Dary Rivera, has been set aside specifically to protect the quetzal. It can often be seen on the grounds of one of the area lodges feeding on the aguacatillo trees. The larger, nearby Sierra de Las Minas Biosphere Reserve is also a safe bet. Some grassroots organizations such as Proyecto Eco-Quetzal are working with local communities in Alta Verapaz to promote sustainable tourism in the hopes they will see the economic value of preserving the forest instead of destroying it for slash-and-burn agriculture.

Among endemic species is the flightless Atitlán grebe (Podilymbus gigas), commonly known as poc, which was officially declared extinct in 1989. The introduction of nonnative large- and smallmouth bass into the lake seems to have precipitated its drastic decline in numbers from about 200 in 1960 to only 32 in 1983. The bass ate the young grebes as well as the crabs and fish species on which poc fed.

Endemic to the northern Petén region is the Petén ocellated turkey (Meleagris ocellata), readily seen strutting around Tikal. It is smaller but much more colorful than its northern relatives, somewhat resembling a peacock. Other interesting birds found in Guatemala’s tropical forests include the keel-billed toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus), a perennial jungle favorite because of its large, colorful, bananalike beak. Many of these can be seen at Tikal around sunrise and sunset flying among the temples peeking from the forest canopy. A large variety of parrots also inhabit the Petén forests. The most impressive of these is the scarlet macaw (Ara macao), which once inhabited large parts of Petén as well as the Pacific Coastal plain. It now inhabits only very remote parts of the Petén forests. Conservationists are fighting to save the birds from local extinction and protected nesting sites have been established in The Maya Biosphere Reserve, specifically in Laguna del Tigre National Park. Rounding out the list of noteworthy birds is the harpy eagle (Harpia harpyja), a large, powerful raptor that also enjoys healthy populations at Tikal National Park.

Land Mammals

Guatemala’s list of native land mammals is impressive, with a large variety of exotic cats, primates, and other furry creatures. The largest of Guatemala’s cats is the jaguar (Felis onca), found in lowland parts of Petén, Izabal, and Las Verapaces. Referred to as tigre by locals, it is known to sometimes wander into chiclero camps as well as kill livestock in remote cattle ranches that have encroached on remote areas. Sightings of this beautiful spotted cat are rare, so consider yourself lucky if you are able to spot one in the wild. Its tracks are more likely to be seen on travels to the remote forests of The Maya Biosphere Reserve, which can be exciting enough. Other cats include the jaguarundi (Herpailurus yaguarondi), puma (Puma concolor), and their smaller relatives the margay (Leopardus wiedii) and ocelot (Leopardus pardalis).

Among the most widely seen mammals are monkeys. You are likely to hear the roar of howler monkeys (Alouatta pigra) during the early morning hours if camping overnight in Petén. Less aggressive, smaller, and ever more playful, are spider monkeys (Ateles geoffroyi). The gray fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus) can often be seen in the early morning and evening among Tikal’s temples. More exotic forest dwellers include the piglike collared peccary (Tayassu tajacu) and white-lipped peccary (Tayasu pecari) as well as the hefty Baird’s tair (Tapirus bairdii), and the tamandua anteater (Tamandua mexicana).

Also easy to spot are some of the smaller mammals, particularly in parks such as Tikal and Yaxhá. Among these are the raccoonlike white-nosed coati (Nasua narica), which practically walk up to you at Tikal; mouselike agoutis (Dasyprocta punctata), and kinkajous (Potos flavus).

If you happen to like bats, you’ll be pleased to know Guatemala harbors more than 100 species of the flying critters. Many of these are found in the limestone caves of Petén and the Verapaces. Most of these are harmless to humans, feeding on fruits and insects. There are blood-sucking vampire bats (Desmodus rotundus) flying about, though these feed mostly on cattle. Your best bets for spotting bats are at Lanquín Caves National Park and {node:28444] around dusk.

Sealife

Five species of sea turtles can be seen on Guatemala’s Atlantic and Pacific Coasts, where they also come ashore to lay their eggs. These are olive ridley, hawksbill, leatherback, green, and loggerhead. Of these, olive ridley, leatherback, and hawksbill turtles nest on the Pacific shores and can be seen at the Biotopo Monterrico-Hawaii. Between September and January, visitors to this park have the rare opportunity to hold baby sea turtles in their hands before releasing them to begin their mad dash across the sand and a lifetime at sea. If they survive to adulthood, the females will return to very same beach to lay their eggs and begin a new life cycle. All of these turtle species are endangered because of the harvesting of their eggs by poor coastal dwellers in search of food and a means to supplement their incomes.

Guatemala’s Pacific sailfish have become the object of widespread praise in the angling circuit with blue marlin, Pacific sailfish, and yellowfin tuna just waiting to be caught. Humpback whales can also be seen breaching in the Pacific waters. As for the Caribbean Coast, Guatemala just missed out on the Belize Barrier Reef, as it ends right at the doorstep of the Punta de Manabique peninsula. The barrier reef is easily accessible, however, along with the wonders of its corals and exotic fish from Punta de Manabique Wildlife Refuge. Although lacking the barrier reef per se, the waters off Guatemala’s Atlantic Coast are certainly not devoid of exotic sea life. Bottle-nosed dolphins readily follow motorboats as they make their way along the Caribbean coast. The endangered manatee (Trichechus manatus), or sea cow, has become increasingly rare as the large, slow, sea grass–eating mammal has fallen prey to hunting, motorboats, and drowning in fishing nets. A small reserve in Izabal’s El Golfete is attempting to protect the few that remain in Guatemalan waters.

Amphibians

There are 112 species of amphibians represented in Guatemala. Guatemala is out of range for some of the colorful miniature frogs, such as poison arrow frogs, found farther south in Costa Rica and Panama, but there are still some interesting frogs to be found in Guatemala’s tropical forests; among these are the red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas) and the similar Morelet’s tree frog (Agalychnis moreletti). Fleischmann’s glass frog (Hyalinobatrachium fleischmanni) is translucent and lime green with small yellow spots and yellowish hands. Its organs and bones are visible through the abdominal skin. All three of these prefer vegetation near rivers and streams.

Reptiles

With 214 species of reptiles, Guatemala has no shortage of snakes. Among the little critters to watch out for are the fer-de-lance (Bothrops asper), known locally as barba amarilla. The aggressive pit viper is found in abundant quantities in the tropical forests of Petén, Izabal, and Las Verapaces, though you are not likely to see one. Baby fer-de-lance can be especially dangerous as they are yet unable to control the amount of poison they inject into a bite.

Other snakes include tropical rattlesnakes (Crotalus durissus), several species of colorful coral snakes, and nonvenomous boa constrictors.

If you watched the Survivor TV series, you probably noticed there are crocodiles in Guatemala, particularly in and around Lake Yaxhá. The crocodiles seen on Survivor are Morelet’s crocodiles (crocodylus moreleti). The larger American crocodile (crocodylus acutus) can be found in coastal areas, swamps, and larger rivers in Petén and Izabal. Many species of river turtles inhabit the tropical lowlands. Basilisk lizards and at least two species of iguana round out the highlighted list of Guatemala’s reptiles.

Insects

This subject might give some readers “the itchies” but in addition to the myriad species of arachnids, such as tarantulas and scorpions, or plentiful amounts of mosquitoes in some places, Guatemalan lands are host to many other and more beautiful creatures. Among these are thousands of species of butterflies, including the beautiful blue morpho, which you might see flitting about the forest in an iridescent flash of blue. While hiking Guatemala’s forests, keep an eye out for the industrious leaf-cutter ants, which cut pathways through the forest and carry small pieces of bright green leaves to their nests, where they are used as compost for underground fungus farms. Butterflies and leaf-cutters are virtually guaranteed favorites among younger travelers to these parts.

© Al Argueta from Moon Guatemala, 3rd Edition. Photos © Al Argueta www.alargueta.com