Inside the Park: Grand Canyon Village

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“You’re not just close—you’re there,” is the mantra of Xanterra Parks & Resorts, and it’s absolutely true. If you want to immerse yourself in the national park experience, a stay inside is a must. Xanterra (928/638-2631 for same-day reservations, 888/297-2757, www.grandcanyonlodges.com) operates six hotels at the park’s South Rim, including historic El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Lodge, for a total of 907 rooms.

In 1968, Xanterra (then known as Amfac) acquired the Fred Harvey Company, continuing to manage and operate the South Rim’s lodges and many of its gift shops. If you happen to be a history or architecture buff, you’ll appreciate how each lodge speaks to an era of Grand Canyon travel.

Make reservations early; rooms are often booked up from late spring to early autumn. In winter, Yavapai Lodge may close for a few weeks, so even though there are fewer visitors, there are also fewer rooms available. Note that all lodges are nonsmoking, and pets aren’t allowed. Promotional packages are available during the winter months, the canyon’s off-season, when rates at Maswik and Yavapai Lodges run lower.

El Tovar is the “log palace” built in 1905 by the Santa Fe Railway to lure well-heeled tourists to Grand Canyon. It is still the most elegantly appointed lodging at Grand Canyon, and its 78 rooms have been refurbished to satisfy contemporary tastes. With luxury suites, room service, a concierge desk, an elegant dining room, and morning coffee on the mezzanine, you might feel like you’re in a major city . . . until you look out your window for views of the canyon or forest, or see mule deer browsing the lawn.

Standard rooms with one double bed start at $166 ($196 queen), deluxe rooms ($256 two queens or one king). Extra persons are $14 each. Suites ($306–406) have a bedroom and a sitting room, and may include a porch or balcony.

Mary Colter designed Bright Angel Lodge and cabins in 1935 to look like a pioneer settlement of log, clapboard, and pueblo-style cabins. The lodge is central to rim activities, most notably the Bright Angel Trail, which begins just a few steps away. It also has a family restaurant, a steakhouse, a coffeehouse/bar, and a soda fountain.

Accommodations range from simple “hiker rooms” with shared bath ($76) to private cabins ($136–166). The Bright Angel cabins perched along the rim are some of the nicest lodging options at the canyon. All rooms have phones, but only the cabins have televisions. Four of the rim cabins have their own fireplaces. Suites ($132–317) are available, including the historic log cabin on the rim that once belonged to sheriff and Roughrider Buckey O’Neill.

Kachina and Thunderbird Lodges are perched on the canyon rim between El Tovar and Bright Angel. Built in the mid-1900s, these lodges were slated for demolition in the park’s general management plan, with the goals of opening up rim views and restoring a more historic feel to the village. Because of funding shortfalls and opposition to the proposed light rail system, the 1995 general management plan has been slow to be implemented.

In the meantime, the Kachina and Thunderbird Lodges continue to offer rim-side accommodations, and they’re actually beginning to show a certain historic appeal. Recent renovations have highlighted their mid-century style, sort of a Jetsons-meet-Western feel. Rooms at both of these small lodges (49 and 55 units) have two queen beds or one king ($162–172), with the higher price for canyon-view rooms. Other amenities include an in-room coffeemaker and refrigerator, a telephone, and a television. If you’re staying at the Kachina, you’ll check in at El Tovar. Thunderbird guests check in at Bright Angel Lodge.

Maswik Lodge is tucked into the forest about a quarter mile from the canyon’s edge. The lodge’s north section is a few years newer than the south section, and Maswik North rooms have more amenities, including air conditioning. All of Maswik’s 278 rooms, including the cabins ($86, available summers only), have private baths, phones, and television. Maswik North rooms ($162) also have in-room coffee and refrigerators and a choice of two queen beds or one king. Maswik South rooms ($86), usually a little smaller, have two queen beds. The lodge’s main building includes a cafeteria, sports bar, and gift shop, with a transportation desk in the lobby.

With 358 rooms in its two wings, Yavapai Lodge is the South Rim’s largest in-park motel. It’s also the farthest from the rim at half a mile away, though it is conveniently close to Market Plaza and campground services, making it a great choice for families. All rooms have television and phones, and most have two queen beds (Yavapai West, $102; Yavapai East, $146), though some Yavapai East rooms have one king bed. Note that Yavapai West doesn’t have air-conditioning, though ceiling fans are usually adequate for South Rim summers. Yavapai East rooms have air-conditioning, as well as in-room refrigerators and coffeemakers.

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