Phantom Ranch (888/297-2757, www.grandcanyonlodges.com), the only place inside the canyon where you’ll find sheets and showers, consists of a cluster of historic wood-and-stone buildings along Bright Angel Creek, near its confluence with the Colorado River. Phantom Ranch has dormitory-style rooms and cabins, as well as a canteen serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The canteen also acts as post office and grocery. Room reservations are accepted up to 13 months in advance, and rooms sell out quickly.

Men’s and women’s dorms ($35 per person per night) with 10 bunks each are available for hikers and river runners, with a shared shower and restroom. The 11 cabins are reserved for mule riders and included in tour fees. Cabins and dorms have heat and evaporative cooling (referred to affectionately by Arizonans as “swamp coolers”).

The Phantom Ranch Canteen sells snacks and serves up a simple but hearty breakfast ($18), sack lunch ($10), and dinner ($23–36). Dinner options include steak, stew, or a veggie meal. Meals are included for mule tour guests, but hikers and river runners need to make meal reservations well in advance of their trips.