Very few who come to Grand Canyon experience its Inner Gorge because, frankly, it’s not an easy journey. You’ll pay for it with time, effort, and sweat—but you’ll treasure it all the more because you’ve earned your place in the canyon’s heart. You can see and hear the immense power and grace of the Colorado River, touch rocks that are two billion years old, and walk on trails that have been used for centuries.

At night, the narrow ribbon of sky is bright with stars, and you are surrounded by stone. No matter how hard it is to get here, you’ll be grateful that you did.

A simple backpacking trip might require three days and two nights in the canyon, but you’ll need a week or more if you plan to explore the length of the inner canyon by raft, or if you take wilderness trails from rim to river and back. Because of the myriad challenges (heat, wilderness, remoteness, topography), the inner canyon is an area most wisely experienced with companions.

The Park Service strongly discourages anyone from attempting to hike from rim to river and back in a day. Unless you are an exceptionally strong hiker, you’ll need to spend at least one night in the canyon, and that means preparing ahead by applying for a backcountry permit. Out of 30,000 applications each year, the Park Service grants 13,000 permits, and those lucky enough to get one will win an experience to remember.

It’s even harder to get a river permit. People often wait years for the chance to put together a private boat trip through the canyon. It’s easier to get a spot on a commercial boat trip, available seasonally from a number of tour operators. Though commercial trips often sell out a year in advance, last-minute cancellations are possible. Most commercial white-water trips last 7–18 days.

All the clichés you’ve heard are true: It is like entering another world, and time does lose its meaning. Ten days will feel like 10 hours—you won’t believe the trip is over so quickly. Luckily, 10 days will also feel like 10 months, because you’ve filled each one with so much: great hikes, good food, gorgeous views, lots of white-water thrills, and plenty of peaceful moments. Be kind and give yourself at least a day or two to transition back to civilization.

Mule tours generally spend one night in the canyon, but you can arrange for a second night, which gives you more time to explore the lovely environs of Phantom Ranch. You can experience a lot of the canyon on a mule trip, even on an overnight: history, scenery, camaraderie, and dramatic vistas from the canyon’s two most popular trails, Bright Angel and South Kaibab.

From May through September, the inner canyon is hot. At river elevations of 1,200–3,200 feet, the inner canyon’s Sonoran Desert climate is like being in Tucson or Phoenix. Expect a 20–30°F difference between rims and river, choosing gear—and food—accordingly. Sun protection is crucial: appropriate clothing, hat, sunglasses, sunblock.

Many trails have exposed sections, and at midday, even the river is in full sun. The commercial rafting season runs from April through October. Mule trips to Phantom Ranch are scheduled year-round. The best times for backpacking are spring and fall, although during winter, when both rims may be covered with snow, inner canyon temperatures average 50–60°F—great hiking weather.