If you really want to try a regional culinary tradition, you need to order chivo liniero; it is a spicy goat dish that achieves its exquisite taste because the goats of this region feed on wild oregano, so the meat has been naturally seasoned. Most restaurants serve a dish containing some type of chivo in this area.

The restaurant of Hostal San Fernando (road to El Morro, tel. 809/964-0248, 8 a.m.–late daily, US$5–20) has traditional chicken, beef, and fish choices as well as good breakfasts. This enjoyable spot is on the road out to El Morro.

Comedor Adela (Juan de la Cruz Alvarez 41, tel. 809/579-2254, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily, US$10 and under) offers an inviting, casual atmosphere, and you can order good renditions of traditional Dominican favorites, like la bandera dominicana. Sit outside in the courtyard or inside in what could easily be your abuela Carmen’s dining room, complete with pink and white tablecloths covered in plastic and mecedoras (rocking chairs) in the corner. If you’re going to try regional goat, try it here. The plate of the day (rice and beans, meat and salad) is only US$3.50. Someone should talk to abuela and tell her she’s being too kind.

Not only is the seafood a great reason to come to El Bistrot (Calle San Fernando 26, tel. 809/579-2091, www.elbistrot.com, 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m.–midnight Mon.–Fri., 10 a.m.–midnight Sat. and Sun., US$5–20), but the ambience is worth it as well. You can sit either in the open air of a courtyard or inside. Other dishes include regional goat, sandwiches, and various pastas. It’s a very welcoming establishment.

The party at Double Via (Calle Duarte and Calle Colón) doesn’t get going here on Fridays and Saturdays until after 10:30 or 11 at night even though they are open earlier, and things don’t wind down until about 2 a.m. On Sundays expect things to get started around 3 p.m. and end around midnight. You will be able to dance to a good variety of merengue and bachata music. Guys, it has become standard practice for some women to ask you to buy them a beer if you have asked them to dance, so don’t be surprised by this. If this happens, don’t be surprised if you end up buying a round for her girlfriends, too. Of course, you don’t have to do any of this, but it is a polite thing to do. Don’t flash money around, though. This will make you the biggest target around, both for beer buying and potential pick-pocketing. Ladies, it is best not to take purses to discos.