A stroll down Zulueta from Parque Central, returning via Monserrate, reveals several sites of interest, in addition to the “must-sees.”

One block north of Parque Central, at the corner of Zulueta and Ánimas, a mosaic on the paving announces your arrival at Sloppy Joe’s, commemorated as Freddy’s Bar in Hemingway’s To Have and Have Not. At last visit, the near-derelict building remained shuttered, its interior a dusty shambles, awaiting the restoration now sweeping Habana Vieja. Across the way is the old Cuartel de Bomberos fire station, housing the tiny Museo de Bomberos (Museum of Firemen, Zulueta #257, e/ Neptuno y Ánimas)

As you cross Refugio, on your right is a SAU-100 Stalin tank fronting the Museo de la Revolución; it was used by in the Bay of Pigs. Immediately beyond is Plaza 13 de Mayo, a grassy park named to commemorate the ill-fated attack of the presidential palace by student martyrs on March 13, 1957. It was laid out by French landscaper Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier. At the base of Zulueta, at the junction with Cárcel, note the flamboyant art nouveau building housing the Spanish Embassy.

Turn right and cross Plaza 13 de Mayo to reach Monserrate.

At the base of Monserrate, at its junction with Calle Tacón, is the Museo y Archivo de la Música (Capdevilla #1, tel. 07/861-9846 and 863-0052; closed for restoration at last visit), housed in the sober Casa de Pérez de la Riva, built in Italian Renaissance style in 1905. The museum traces the evolution of Cuban music since early colonial days; its collection of antique instruments includes venerable pianos and drums. In a separate room, you can listen to old scores drawn from the record library.

Following Monserrate uphill, southward, you’ll pass the Iglesia del Santo Ángel Custodio (Monserrate y Cuarteles, tel. 07/861-8873). Opposite, a semi-derelict watchtower—Baluarte de Ángel—erected in 1680 stands in front of Museo de la Revolución. Monserrate continues south three blocks to Edificio Bacardí and Plazuela de Supervielle, commemorating Dr. Manuel Fernández Supervielle, mayor of Havana during the 1940s.

One block south brings you to Plazuela de Albear, with a bust of Francisco de Albear, who last century engineered the Malecón and Havana’s first water-drainage system. On its south side, adjoining El Floridita, is the Casa del Ron, where free rum samples are given.