The vast majority of visitors to Cuba spend at least some time in Havana (beachgoers who visit Havana for a cursory visit may regret not spending longer). For many, the city is a worthy destination unto itself, like London or Paris. Havana is so large and ancient, and the sights to be seen so many, that one week is the bare minimum needed.

Metropolitan Havana sprawls over 740 square kilometers (286 square miles) and incorporates 15 municipios (municipalities). Like all fine cities, Havana is a collection of neighborhoods, each with its own distinct character. Since the city is so spread out, it is best to explore Havana in sections, concentrating your time on the three main districts—Habana Vieja, Vedado, and Miramar—in that order.

If you have only one or two days in Havana, then I recommend an organized city tour. This will provide an overview of all the major sites. Concentrate the balance of your time around Parque Central, Plaza de la Catedral, and Plaza de Armas.

Your checklist of must-sees should include the Capitolio Nacional, Gran Teatro, Partagás cigar factory, Museo de la Revolución, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the Catedral de la Habana, and the Museo de la Ciudad de la Habana (in the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales).

For visitors who intend to linger in the city, give most of your time to Habana Vieja (Old Havana), the original colonial city within the 17th-century city walls (now demolished). The area deserves a minimum of three or four days; more if you want to see every museum, castle, and other place of interest lining its cobbled streets and plazas. Be sure to journey across the harbor to visit Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña, featuring two restored castles attended by soldiers in period costume.

Vedado is the modern heart of the city that evolved in the early 20th century, with many ornate mansions in Beaux-Arts and art nouveau style. Its leafy streets make for great walking. The Hotel Nacional, Universidad de la Habana, Cementerio Colón, and Plaza de la Revolución are among the prime sights not to miss.

If you’re interested in Beaux-Arts, art deco, or even 1950s moderne architecture, then once-glamorous Miramar and Cubanacán, west of Vedado, are worth exploring. Miramar also has several excellent restaurants, deluxe hotels, and fine beaches, plus Cuba’s preeminent cigar factory and some of my favorite nightspots.

Most other sections of Havana are run-down residential districts of little interest to tourists. A few exceptions lie on the east side of Havana harbor. Regla and neighboring Guanabacoa are together a center of santería and Afro-Cuban music.

Despite Havana’s great size, most sights of interest are highly concentrated, and most exploring is best done on foot. Ideally you’ll want wheels for touring beyond Habana Vieja. The taxi system is efficient and fairly priced, although public transport is mostly a nightmare, as elsewhere in Cuba.

Don’t restrict your wandering to daylight hours. There is always life on the streets, 24/7.

All touristed areas are patrolled by police.