Guantánamo’s dire dining scene has improved in recent years, although it has no paladares, and the short-lived Restaurante Vegetariano is now the lackluster La Criolla (Pedro Pérez, esq. Flor Crombet, daily noon–2:30 p.m. and 5–10:30 p.m.), serving basic criollo fare.

For romance, head to Restaurante Los Girasoles (Ahogados #6501, esq. a 15 Norte, Rpto. Caribe, tel. 021/38-4178, daily noon–9:30 p.m.), offering candlelit dinners, including shrimp cocktail (CUC2), in an elegant 1950s home. The night I dined here, however, it had only pork and fried chicken (CUC3). Reservations advised.

Alternatively, try Ranchón Río Bano (daily 11 a.m.–6 p.m.), a thatched riverside restaurant at Villa Turística La Lupe (four kilometers north of town).

Five pesos will buy you a slice of what passes for pizza at Pizzería La Veneciana (Mon.–Sat. 10 a.m.–2:45 p.m. and 5:30–10:45 p.m.), on the east side of Parque Martí. At least the coffee is good at Casa La Indiana (24 hours), on the south side of Parque Martí. And Coppelia (Pérez, esq. Bernace Verona, daily 9 a.m.–10 p.m.) serves delicious ice cream for pesos.

You can buy produce at the mercado agropecuario (Antonio Maceo, esq. Prado, Mon.–Sat. 8 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.–2 p.m.).