The only paladar, La Colonial (Martí #123, e/ Maraví y Frank País, tel. 021/64-5391, daily 10 a.m.–11 p.m.), has heaps of cozy colonial charm. It even serves swordfish and shark and dorado in huge portions (most dishes CUC7).

Although it has its off nights, the Restaurant Duaba (Calle Calixto García, Loma del Paraíso, tel. 021/64-5165, daily 7–9:45 a.m., noon–2:30 p.m., and 7–9:45 p.m.), in the Hotel El Castillo, serves creative local dishes such as seafood prepared in coconut sauce with herbs (CUC8), and a delicious rice in sweet coconut sauce dessert (CUC2).

Restaurante La Punta (tel. 021/64-1480, daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m.), in Fortaleza de la Punta, can’t be beat for its airy patio setting and colonial ambience. The limited criollo menu includes a fish, crab, and shrimp special (CUC9).

Another winner is the modestly elegant Restaurante La Habanera (Maceo #68, esq. Frank País, tel. 021/64-5273, daily 7 a.m.–9:45 p.m.), in the Hostal La Habanera. Try the house special appetizer of corn tamale with bacon and sausage with garlic, herbs, and criollo sauce (CUC3).

You can buy a chocolate drink, natilla (a kind of chocolate mousse), and chocolate bars for pesos at the Casa del Chocolate (Antonio Maceo #121, esq. Maraví, tel. 021/64-1553, daily 7:30 a.m.–10:20 p.m.).

For baked goods, head to Panadería La Mia (Martí #335), one block west of Fuerte Matachín. You can buy produce at the mercado agropecuario (24 de Febrero y Malecón).