Day 1

Arrive Havana’s José Martí International Airport; transfer to a hotel or casa particular in the Habana Vieja or Vedado districts.

Day 2

Take a self-guided walking tour of Habana Vieja, to include the Plaza de Armas and Plaza de la Catedral and the museums, galleries, and shops along surrounding streets. Return at night to savor the plazas lit by traditional gas lanterns. Don’t fail to sip a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio (I also recommend lunch here).

Day 3

Continue exploring Habana Vieja, to include the Plaza de San Francisco and Plaza Vieja and surrounding area, being sure not to miss the Museo de Ron. In late afternoon, head to the Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña, being sure not to miss the cañonazo ceremony.

Day 4

This morning, concentrate your time around Parque Central and Paseo de Martí. Be sure to visit the Capitolio Nacional, Partagás cigar factory, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, and the Museo de la Revolución. A daiquiri at El Floridita is a must! At dusk, walk the Malecón.

Day 5

Spend the morning exploring the streets of Vedado, being sure to call in at the Hotel Nacional, the Hotel Tryp Habana Libre, and University of Havana. After cooling off with an ice cream at Coppelia (with pesos in hand, stand in line with the Cubans), walk along Calle 17, calling in at the Museo de Artes Decorativas. Then hail a taxi to take you to Cementerio Colón and Plaza de la Revolución.

Day 6

Rent a car and set out on a tour of suburban Havana, calling in at Iglesia Santa María del Rosario and Museo Ernest Hemingway. Continue to the village of Cojímar for lunch at La Terraza, then head to Playas del Este for time on the beach. I recommend the Playa Mégano section at Tarará.

Day 7

Head west along the Circuito Norte highway to Las Terrazas, an eco-resort and rural community in the heart of the Sierra del Rosario. Hike the trails and visit the artists’ studios. Overnight at Hotel La Moka.

Day 8

Continue west to Valle de Viñales. Spend the afternoon exploring Viñales village, the Cuevo del Indio, and tobacco fields. Overnight either in a casa particular or at the Hotel La Ermita.

Day 9

This morning head to the town of Pinar del Río and take the Autopista east to Havana and onwards to Santa Clara (yes, it’s a long drive, but there’s no alternative). Visit the mausoleum and museum of Che Guevara, then continue to the historic town of Remedios. During Christmas week, overnight in Remedios to enjoy the local fireworks battles called parrandas.

Day 10

Continue east via Morón to Cayo Coco, arriving mid-afternoon with time to enjoy the beach and water sports.

Day 11

Follow the Circuito Norte east to Las Tunas, then continue along the Carretera Central to Holguín. I recommend staying at a casa particular.

Day 12

After walking the main plazas, set out for Sitio Histórico Birán, birthplace of Fidel Castro, before following the coast road east via Moa to Baracoa, arriving in this isolated and charming town in early evening. Overnight at Hotel El Castillo or a casa particular.

Day 13

Stroll the streets of Baracoa, savoring its unique laid-back flavor. This afternoon head to El Yunque, where you can hike to the summit of this fantastic mountain formation.

Day 14

Continue over La Farola, a switchback mountain road, dropping to the city of Guantánamo. En route, be sure to visit the Zoológica de Piedra. Continue to Santiago de Cuba, arriving early evening. Check into the Hotel Casa Grande or a casa particular.

Day 15

After visiting the Cuartel Moncada and Museo de la Revolución, spend the balance of the day exploring the historic quarter of Santiago de Cuba, being sure to include the Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia.

Before dusk, head out to El Morro castle to watch the cañonazo ceremony, when soldiers in period costume put a light to an ancient cannon. This evening, call in at the Casa de la Trova to hear traditional Cuban music at its best.

Day 16

This morning depart Santiago and follow the Carretera Central northwest to the town of Bayamo. En route, call in at El Cobre to visit the shrine of the Virgen de la Caridad. After sightseeing around the main plaza of Bayamo, continue northwest via Yasa to Las Tunas. Overnight at a casa particular.

Day 17

Continue west along the Carretera Central to Camagüey, arriving midday with time to explore the three major colonial plazas. For digs, I recommend the charmingly restored 18th-century Gran Hotel, which also has one of the best eateries in town.

Day 18

Get an early start today for the drive west via the provincial capitals of Ciego de Ávila and Sancti Spíritus, then through the Valle de los Ingenios, where you should have lunch at Hacienda Iznaga. Arriving in Trinidad, spend the rest of the afternoon walking the ancient plazas.

Day 19

After further walking the cobbled colonial heart of Trinidad, drive out to Playa Ancón for beach time and perhaps even some scuba diving. Tonight check out an Afro-Cuban performance, then head to the Disco Ayala, set in a cave.

Day 20

Up early again to follow the long and winding road up over the Sierra Escambray to Topes de Collantes. Continue north to Santa Clara, then head back to Havana via the Autopista. This evening, visit the Tropicana cabaret, being sure to have made reservations.

Day 21

Transfer to the airport for your departure flight.

© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Cuba, 4th Edition