Santa Clara (pop. 175,000), 300 kilometers east of Havana, is the provincial capital of Villa Clara. Straddling the Carretera Central and within five minutes of the Autopista, it is strategically located at the center of Cuba. The city was established within the confluence of the Ríos Bélico and Cubanicay in 1689, when residents of Remedios grew tired of constant pirate raids, pulled up stakes, and moved inland.

Much later it functioned as a plum in Cuba’s Wars of Independence, and again during the battle to topple Batista. On December 31, 1958, Che Guevara’s Rebel Army attacked the town and derailed a troop train carrying reinforcements and U.S. armaments bound for Oriente. Two days later, the Rebel Army captured the city, which became known as el último reducto de la tiranía batistiana (the last fortress of Batista’s tyranny). Within 24 hours, the dictator fled the island.

As Minister of Industry, Che Guevara developed a soft spot for the city. Today Santa Clara is an important industrial town. The suburbs contain many factories. It is also home to the University de las Villas. A full-scale zoo covering five hectares was being prepared at last visit and will include monkeys, lions, ostriches, and leopards.

One day’s sightseeing will suffice.

Getting to Santa Clara

By Air: Flights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Abel Santamaría (tel. 0422/20-9138), about 10 kilometers northeast of the city.

By Bus: The Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales (Av. Cincuentenario, Independencia y Oquendo, tel. 0422/29-2214) is on the Carretera Central about 2.5 kilometers west of the city center. Víazul (tel. 0422/22-2523) buses that stop in Santa Clara depart Havana at 9:30 a.m., 5 p.m., and 10 p.m.; Santiago de Cuba at 9 a.m., 3:15 p.m., 10 p.m., and 10:30 p.m.; Trinidad at 5:25 p.m.; and Varadero at 7:30 a.m. and 8:55 p.m.

By Train: Most trains traveling between Havana and Santiago de Cuba stop in Santa Clara. The Estación de Ferrocarriles (tel. 0422/20-2895) is at the northern end of Luis Estévez, seven blocks from Parque Vidal. Same-day tickets are sold at the ticket office (tel. 0422/20-0854) on the south side of the square. Seats on the regular are sold up to 24 hours in advance; seats on the especial can be bought only one hour in advance of departure.

In addition, provincial trains to Santa Clara depart Caibarién at 4:21 a.m.; Sagua at 4:42 a.m.; and Cienfuegos at 4:10 a.m.

By Car: You can rent cars from Transtur (Tristá, esq. Amparo, tel. 0422/20-2040; and in the Hotel Santa Clara Libre, tel. 0422/20-4512); Havanautos (Marta Abreu #130, tel. 0422/20-9118); Micar (Servicentro Oro Negro, Carretera Central y San Miguel, tel. 0422/20-4570); and Rex (Marta Abreu #130, tel. 042/22-2244).

By Organized Excursion: Tour agencies include Cubanacán (Maceo #453, e/ Carretera Central y Caridad, tel. 0422/20-5189), Havanatur (Máximo Gómez #13, e/ Independencia y Barreras, tel. 0422/20-4001), and Cubatur (Martha Abreu #10, e/ Máximo Gómez y Villuendas, tel. 0422/20-8980, cubaturvc [at] enet [dot] cu).