All the main highways merge into (or radiate out from) the city of Santa Clara, which boasts the must-see Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara. A full day is sufficient for this city, which has several good casas particulares.

Northwest of Santa Clara, the Circuito Norte linking Villa Clara with Matanzas Province skirts the north coast and offers little of visual appeal. You can enjoy a massage and steep in mud at Baños de Elguea, where more serious treatments are also offered. Northeast of Santa Clara, the route passes through Vuelta Abajo and is superbly scenic.

I recommend overnighting in the town of Remedios to savor its historic charm. If possible, time your visit for Christmas week, when the entire town explodes in revelry; accommodation is in short supply at year’s end, so book well in advance. When the dust settles, head out to Cayo Santa María for sunning, swimming, and to reel in some game fish from the placid jade waters.

The Carretera Central through central Villa Clara will take you through aged provincial towns, although there are no sites or sights of significance. Similarly, the Autopista runs through northern Cienfuegos and southern Villa Clara Province and should be used for rapid transit through the region. (East of Santa Clara city, the scenery takes a dramatic turn as the Autopista cuts through the beautiful hills of the Alturas de Santa Clara and passes into Sancti Spíritus Province.) The main turnoff for the city of Cienfuegos is at Aguada de los Pasajeros, where there’s a gas station alongside an appealing bar and restaurant, with an antique steam engine on display. Just east of Ranchuelo, an ungated railway track runs across the Autopista. Use caution, and avoid the freeway entirely at night!

The city of Cienfuegos is a popular destination with an intriguing historic city core. Nearby, the ho-hum beach at Rancho Faro has a Delfinario with dolphin shows, and anyone with a love of flora will find fascination in the Jardín Botánico Soledad. The city has two excellent hotels (by Cuban standards), plus many excellent casas particulares. By following the scenic southern coast road, you can use Cienfuegos as a gateway for exploring the Sierra Escambray, although Trinidad, in Sancti Spíritus Province, is the best base.

You’ll need at least a week to see all the highlights, with two days for Cienfuegos, a day in the Sierra Escambray, one night in Santa Clara, at least one night in Remedios, and one or two days in Cayo Santa María. Santa Clara is well situated as home base, especially for forays into the Sierra Escambray, although Cienfuegos is the more interesting city.

Santa Clara and Cienfuegos are served by Víazul buses, and Santa Clara is a main stop for the Havana–Santiago de Cuba train service.