Remedios (pop. 18,000), 45 kilometers northeast of Santa Clara, is someithing of a time-warp and one of the most beautiful little towns in Cuba, full of Spanish colonial charm. It is in a good state of preservation, with a graceful symmetry and charisma. The entire city was justifiably named a national monument in 1979.

Remedios was founded in 1514 when a land grant was given to a conquistador named Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa. A city hall wasn’t built, however, and supposedly for that reason the town was never acknowledged as one of the first seven cities, despite its antiquity. It was originally situated closer to the shore. In 1544, it was moved a short distance inland to escape pirates.

The town continued to come under constant attack and in 1578, the townsfolk uprooted again and founded a new settlement, which they renamed San Juan de los Remedios del Cayo. In 1682, a group of citizens uprooted and founded Santa Clara, which in time grew to become the provincial capital. Apparently, in 1691, the clique returned to Remedios, determined to raze it to the ground. They were rebuffed in a pitched battle.

Much of the pleasure today is to be had in roaming the back streets, especially in late afternoon and early evening, when the low sun glows richly against the pastel walls and the church bells ring through town, tolling the hour.

Getting to Remedios

The bus station (tel. 042/39-5185) is on the west side of town, on the road to Santa Clara. Buses for Remedios depart from Havana daily and from Santa Clara four times daily (CUC4.25).

The railway station (tel. 042/39-5129) is eight blocks west of the main square.

Transtur Rent-a-Car has an outlet in the Hotel Mascotte.

Cubanacán (Maceo #453, e/ Carretera Central y Caridad, tel. 0422/20-5189), in Santa Clara, has excursions to the parranda for CUC25.