Arenal Volcano National Park
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The 12,016-hectare Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal (tel. 506/461-8499, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, $6 admission) lies within the 204,000-hectare Arenal Conservation Area, a polyglot assemblage protecting 16 reserves in the region between the Guanacaste and Tilarán mountain ranges, and including Lake Arenal.
The park has two volcanoes: Chato (1,140 meters), whose collapsed crater contains an emerald lagoon, and Arenal (1,633 meters), a picture-perfect cone. Arenal is also Costa Rica’s most active volcano and a must-see on any tourist’s itinerary. Note, however, that it is most often covered in clouds and getting to see an eruption is a matter of luck (the dawn hours are best, before the clouds roll in).
Arenal slumbered peacefully throughout the colonial era. On July 29, 1968, it was awakened from its long sleep by a fateful earthquake. The massive explosion that resulted wiped out the villages of Tabacón and Pueblo Nuevo. The blast was felt as far away as Boulder, Colorado.
Its lava flows and eruptions have since been constant, and on virtually any day you can see smoking cinder blocks tumbling down the steep slope from the horseshoe-shaped crater—or at night, watch a fiery cascade of lava spewing from the 140- meter-deep crater. Some days the volcano blows several times in an hour, spewing house-size rocks, sulfur dioxide and chloride gases, and red-hot lava. The volcano’s active vent is on the western side, and the normal easterly wind blows most of the effluvia westward. Explosions and eruptions, however, occur on all sides.
The turnoff to the entrance is 3.5 kilometers east of Lake Arenal dam and 2.5 kilometers west of Tabacón. The dirt access road leads 1.5 kilometers to the ranger station (no tel.), which gives a small informational pamphlet and has restrooms. A dirt road leads north from here 1.5 kilometers to a parking lot and hiking trails. The park headquarters (tel. 506/461-8499) is about 800 meters further west. Meanwhile, the Arenal Observatory Lodge has a small but interesting Museum of Vulcanicity.
No camping is allowed in the park. However, you can camp on land adjacent to the ranger station ($2.50 pp), with basic toilets and showers.
Trails
The one-kilometer Las Heliconias Trail leads from the ranger station past an area where vegetation is recolonizing the 1968 lava flow. The trail intersects the Look-Out Point Trail, which leads 1.3 kilometers from the ranger station to a mirador—a viewing area—from which you can watch active lava flowing.
Las Coladas Trail begins at the intersection and leads 2.8 kilometers to a lava flow from 1993.
The Los Miradores Trail begins at park headquarters and leads southwest 1.2 kilometers to Lake Arenal. It is good for spotting wildlife.
Farther east, beyond the Ríos Agua Caliente, is the trailhead for Los Tucanes Trail, which leads to the southernmost lava flows (one hour one-way).
You can also hike various trails at the Arenal Observatory Lodge. A guided hike is offered at 8:30 a.m. daily (complimentary to guests). The four-kilometer-long Lava Trail (a tough climb back to the lodge—don’t believe your guide if he/she says it is easy) is free; it takes about three hours round-trip. The Chato Trail (four hours, $3) is longer and more difficult.
Hotels and tour companies in La Fortuna offer volcano tours and can arrange guides.
Hiking too close to the volcano is not advisable. Heed warning signs. This isn’t Disneyland! The volcano is totally unpredictable, and there is a strong possibility of losing your life if you venture into restricted zones.
Arenal Observatory Lodge
Enjoying an enviable setting at a higher elevation than any other hotel in the region, the Arenal Observatory Lodge (tel. 506/692-2070, fax 506/692-2074, $70 s, $90 d standard, $95/120 Smithsonian, $129/137 junior suite high season) is a ridge-top property offering immaculate views over the lake and volcano (you’re viewing the east side, not the side with lava flows, however).
The facility, built in 1987 as an observatory for the Smithsonian Institution and the University of Costa Rica, has 40 rooms of three types in four widely dispersed buildings. Recently remodeled standard rooms offer plenty of comfort, with twin beds and sliding glass doors opening to volcano-view balconies.
Four observatory rooms have volcano views through vast picture windows, as do nine modestly appointed but spacious superior rooms in the Smithsonian block, reached via a suspension bridge.
Five luxury junior suites are more graciously furnished and have the best views.
The Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant is open to non-guests and serves breakfast 7–8:30 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m., and dinner 6–8:30 p.m. daily. It’s worth it for its magnificent vantage. I’ve enjoyed cream of asparagus soup, chicken in curry sauce, and splendid tilapia dishes.
© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Costa Rica, 6th Edition
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