Highway 21 winds south along the eastern shore of the Gulf of Nicoya via Jicaral to Playa Naranjo, beyond which it swings south around the Nicoya Peninsula bound for Paquera, Montezuma, and Malpaís. When I last drove it, the road was partially paved, with large sections worn to the bone. If you plan on traveling direct from the Puntarenas side to southwest Nicoya, it is far preferable to take the ferry.

Playa Naranjo is one of two terminals for the Puntarenas ferry. There’s a gas station and supermarket here. Non-guests can use the facilities at Hotel Oasis del Pacífico ($5) while waiting for the ferry. It arranges sportfishing ($30 per day) and has sea kayaks ($10 per hour).

Inland of Jicaral, the Karen Morgensen Wildlife Reserve (tel. 506/650-0607) protects 730 hectares of tropical moist forest; to get there, turn off at Lepanto, 11 kilometers south of Jicaral. The Costa Rican Association of Community-Based Rural Tourism (ACTUAR, tel. 506/248-9470, www.actuarcostarica.com) arranges accommodation at Cerro Escondido, a lovely simple community lodge with horseback rides, trails, an orchid garden, and small eco-museum.

Accommodations and Food

The nicest of several accommodations at Playa Naranjo is the modern, Italian-owned Hotel El Ancla (tel. 506/641-0815, $30 s/d fan, $50 s/d a/c), just 200 meters from the ferry terminal, with nine brightly decorated air-conditioned rooms fronted by a wide porch with hammocks. There’s a pool and thatched bar and pizza restaurant where movies are shown at 8 p.m.

The best alternative is Hotel Oasis del Pacífico (tel. 506/641-8092, fax 506/641-8091, $30/45 s/d fan, $45/65 s/d a/c high season), 600 meters south of the ferry terminal. It has 36 comfortable chalet-type rooms with fans, double beds, and hot water, plus a swimming pool.