Playa Lagarto to Ostional
Playa Lagarto and South
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South of Junquillal, the dirt road leads along a lonesome stretch of coast to Nosara (35 km south of Junquillal). Fabulous beaches lie hidden along this route, albeit for most of the way out of sight of the shore. There are few hotels. Just forest, cattle pasture, lonesome rustic dwellings, and an occasional fishing village.
If driving south from Tamarindo or west from Santa Cruz on the Santa Cruz–Junquillal road, you must turn south at Soda Las Lucas, four kilometers east of ParaÃso—the turnoff is signed for Marbella (16 km) and Nosara. There are several rivers to ford. A 4WD is essential.
About six kilometers south of the junction, the road briefly hits the shore at Lagarto before curling inland to Marbella, from where a side road runs down to Playa Lagarcito. Four kilometers farther you’ll pass black-sand Playa Azul. About eight kilometers farther south, a turnoff from the coast road leads to the fishing hamlet of San Juanillo. Ostional is five kilometers farther south.
Paski Adventures (tel. 506/652-8086) offers sportfishing out of The Sanctuary (tel. 506/682-8111, fax 506/682-8113, www.thesanctuaryresort.com).
Accommodations and Food
Casa Mango (tel. 506/682-8032, donjim [at] racsa [dot] co [dot] cr, $10 pp), on a hillside three kilometers south of Marbella, has four handsome yet barebones wooden cabinas with fans, and shared bathrooms with cold water only; plus a thatched casa with kitchen ($60 up to six people). It has a restaurant and bar with pool table and veranda with rockers.
Upscale travelers might check into The Sanctuary (tel. 506/682-8111, fax 506/682-8113, www.thesanctuaryresort.com, $235/340 s/d rooms, $225–245 cottages high season), a full-blown resort at Playa Azul. It has condos in a gracious contemporary take on colonial plantation style. There’s a spa, tennis, swimming pool, and water sports. Although rates are all-inclusive, I consider it vastly overpriced.
Here’s one of my all-time faves: 
Tree Tops Inn (tel./fax 506/682-8298, jphunter [at] racsa [dot] co [dot] cr, $95–115 s/d) is a totally reclusive and rustic one-room bed-and-breakfast tucked above a cove at San Juanillo. This charming place is the home of former race-car champion Jack Hunter and his wife, Karen—delightful hosts who go out of their way to make you feel at home. You’re the only guest. There’s one basically furnished room with outdoor shower. You’re here for the spectacular solitude and setting that includes a horseshoe reef with live coral that’s great for snorkeling, and a private beach for an all-over tan. Monkeys cavort in the treetops. The couple offers turtle safaris to Ostional, a swim-with-turtle excursion, plus sportfishing tours; catch your own fish and Karen will prepare sushi. She also fixes up gourmet five-course dinners. Superb! Rates include a real English breakfast. Reservations essential.
Another delight is the German-run Luna Azul (tel. 506/821-0075, $90 s, $110 d high season), high on a hilltop between San Juanillo and Ostional. Its colorful contemporary aesthetic is appealing, and the views are killer from the mezzanine open-air restaurant overlooking a lovely infinity pool and sundeck. It has seven spacious, cross-ventilated cabins with garden showers.
© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Costa Rica, 6th Edition
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