Highway 2 to Santa Cruz

Puerto Humo and Vicinity

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Puerto Humo is a small village on the west bank of the Río Tempisque, about 12 kilometers north of Barra Honda and most easily reached from the town of Nicoya (26 km). The bird-watching hereabouts is splendid. Puerto Humo is a gateway to Palo Verde National Park, across the river. Aventuras Arenal (tel. 506/479-9133) offers boat trips ($45 pp with lunch).

The dirt road continues about five kilometers to the hamlet of Rosario then peters out three kilometers further along at the entrance (no facilities) to Mata Redonda National Wildlife Refuge (Refugio Nacional de Visa Silvestre Mata Redonda).

At Puerto Humo, you can camp for $2 per person near the Aventuras Arenal office on the riverside near the dock.

Tempisque Safari Ecological Adventure

This fabulous facility (tel. 506/698-1069, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. daily), hidden off the beaten track a kilometer beyond Rosario, is a total surprise and delight. Although part of a working cattle ranch, its highlight is the animal rescue and breeding center where snakes, monkeys, peccaries, tapirs, and cats such as the jaguarundi and margay are displayed in large cages.

The crocodile lagoon is the real thing, and you’ll be surprised to find yourself accompanied along the paths by free-strutting deer, rheas, and emus! There are even ostrich, capybara, and bison.

A three-hour guided tour ($45 pp) is offered with a cart pulled by water buffalo, followed by a boat tour of the river. If the gates are closed, Herlen Rojas, the custodio who lives 50 meters along the dirt road, will open up.

Getting There

A bus serves Puerto Humo twice daily, departing Nicoya township at 10:30 a.m. and 2:45 p.m.

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