Highway 2 to Santa Cruz
Nicoya
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Nicoya, about 78 kilometers south of Liberia, is Costa Rica’s oldest colonial city. Today it bustles as the agricultural and administrative heart of the region. The town is named for the Chorotega chief who presented Spanish conquistador Gil González Dávila with gold. The native heritage is still apparent in the facial features of area residents.
The only site of interest is the Parroquia San Blas (tel. 506/685-5109, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–noon Sat.) church built in the 16th century, gleaming anew following a restoration and decorating the town’s peaceful plaza. It contains a few pre-Columbian icons and religious antiques.
Festival of La Virgen de Guadalupe
Try to visit Nicoya on December 12, when villagers carry a dark-skinned image of La Virgen de Guadalupe through the streets accompanied by flutes, drums, and dancers. The festival combines the Catholic celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe with the traditions of the Chorotega legend of La Yequita (Little Mare), a mare that interceded to prevent twin brothers from fighting to the death for the love of a princess.
The religious ceremony is a good excuse for bullfights, explosive fireworks (bombas), concerts, and general merriment. Many locals get sozzled on chicha, a heady brew made from fermented corn and sugar and drunk from hollow gourds.
Accommodations
The Hotel Venecia (tel. 506/685-5325, $15 pp with fan, $20 with a/c), on the north side of the plaza, has 37 clean but basic rooms. Newer, nicer units in a two-story unit are to the rear. It has secure parking.
Budget options of similar standard include Hotel Chorotega (Calle Central, Avenida 6, tel. 506/685-5245, $5 pp shared bath; $7 s, $10 d private bath; $12 s, $16 d with hot water and TV); and Hotel Yenny (Calle 1, Avenida 4, tel. 506/685-5050, $12 s, $20 d); and Hotel Las Tinajas (Avenida 1, Calle 5, tel./fax 506/685-5081 or 506/685-5777, $10 s, $13 d standard; $15 s, $20 d with a/c).
The best bargain is Hotel Multiplaza (tel. 506/685-3535, Calle 1, Avenidas 5/7, $14 pp), which has 25 dark but spacious air- conditioned rooms with fans, comfy mattresses, and cable TV, but cold water only. There’s a small café outside.
Hotel Nicoya I (tel. 506/686-6331, $25 s, $30 d) has eight air-conditioned rooms with fan and private bathrooms with hot water.
The nicest place is Hotel RÃo Tempisque de Lujo (tel. 506/686-6650, $38 s, $41 d), on Highway 21, 800 meters north of the junction for Nicoya township, with 30 well-lit, spacious, air-conditioned cabins in groomed gardens set back from the road for peace and quiet. They display handsome use of cement block. Each has two double beds, cable TV, refrigerator, coffeemaker, microwave, and pleasing bathrooms with hairdryer and hot water. There’s a swimming pool and whirlpool tub in lush gardens.
Food
I like Bar y Restaurante Nicoya (Calle 3, Avenidas Central/2) for its quasi-Chinese ambience; I enjoyed a Hawaiian-style fish fillet with pineapple ($5.50). The best bet in town is Restaurante Guayacán (tel. 506/686-4748, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. daily) on the west side of the plaza. It serves excellent seafood, including ceviche ($5) and shrimp in oyster sauce ($12), plus meat dishes and casados (set lunches, $3).
You can stock up on groceries at the Palà supermarket, opposite the hospital. There’s a Musmanni bakery at Calle 1, Avenida 1. Mönpik, on the west side of the plaza, sells ice cream.
Getting There
Daily buses (Tracopa Alfaro, tel. 506/222-2666, tracopa [at] racsa [dot] co [dot] cr) depart San José for Nicoya from Calle 14, Avenidas 3/5 ($5, six hours). Daily buses also serve Nicoya from Liberia and from Santa Cruz.
© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Costa Rica, 6th Edition
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