Monteverde to Tilarán

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A rough dirt road leads west from Santa Elena via Cabeceras and Quebrada Grande to Tilarán, gateway to Lake Arenal and La Fortuna. It’s beautiful scenery all the way.

Cataratas de Viento Fresco (tel. 506/2695-3434, www.vientofresco.net, 7:30 A.M.–5 P.M. daily, $15 adults, $12 students), 11 kilometers east of Tilarán and 25 kilometers west of Monteverde, has four 120-foot waterfalls, a water slide, trails, and horseback riding ($55).

En route, you can stop at Eco Coffee Tour (tel. 506/2693-8067, www.coopeldos.com), a coffee-growers’ cooperative, at El Dos de Tilarán; or the Don Juan Coffee Tour (tel. 506/2645-7100, www.donjuancoffeetour.com, $25 adults, $20 students).

Fabulous views of Arenal Volcano and Lake Arenal are enjoyed through picture windows in the 10 spacious and simply furnished all-wood rooms (in three types) with private bathrooms and hot water at the Vista Verde Lodge (tel. 506/8380-1517, www.info-monteverde.com, $55 s or $68 d room, $57 s or $75 d junior suite low season; $75 s or $92 d room, $80 s or $99 d junior suite high season), four kilometers north of the Sky Walk, in the community of San Gerardo, on a steep and eroded dirt road that leads off the road to the Santa Elena Reserve. It has a restaurant, and hikes and horseback rides are offered.

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