The 14,200-hectare Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (tel. 506/645-5122, fax 506/645-5034, www.cct.or.cr, 7 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, $13 admission adults, $6 children, $6.50 students, $3.50 residents), six kilometers east of Santa Elena, is owned and administered by the Tropical Science Center of Costa Rica.

It protects more than 100 species of mammals, more than 400 species of birds, and more than 1,200 species of amphibians and reptiles. It is one of the few remaining habitats of all six species of the cat family: jaguar, ocelot, puma, margay, oncilla, and jaguarundi. Bird species embrace black guan, emerald toucanet, the critically endangered three-wattled bellbird (whose metallic “BONK!” call carries for almost two miles), and 30 local hummingbird species.

Hundreds of visitors come to Costa Rica to visit Monteverde in hopes of seeing a resplendent quetzal (approximately 100 pairs nest in the reserve).

The reserve has 13 kilometers of trails for day-visitors concentrated in an area called “The Triangle.” Parts ooze with mud; other sections have been covered with raised wooden walkways.

A maximum of 120 people are allowed on the trails at any one time. Access is first come, first served, except for those already booked on guided tours. See the website for a trail map.

Longer trails requiring overnight lead down the Pacific slopes. Sendero Valle leads to La Cascada, a triple waterfall, and continues via the valley of the Río Peñas Blancas to Pocosol, about 20 kilometers south of La Fortuna.

These are for experienced Indiana Jones–type hikers only. There are three basic backpacking shelters with bunks, showers, and hydroelectricity, plus propane stoves and pots and pans, but you’ll need to bring food and sleeping bag. Trail crews and researchers get priority. Rates are $3.50–5 nightly. Reservations are essential, since the huts are locked (you’re told how to pick up the key after making your reservation).

Bring warm clothing and raingear. You can rent rubber boots in many hotels and at the visitors center ($1), which also rents binoculars ($10 per day, plus deposit) and sells a self-guide pamphlet, trail map, and wildlife guides.

If you want to hike alone, buy your ticket the day before and set out before the crowds. You increase your chances of seeing wildlife if you hike with a guide; reservations are advisable (you can book online; from $15).

Three-hour guided tours (caminatas) are also offered at 7:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., and 1 p.m. daily (minimum three people, maximum nine people; $15 pp plus entrance). A five-hour birding tour is offered at 6 a.m. ($40–50). A two-hour night hike is offered at 7:15 p.m. ($13).

A café at the visitors center serves omelettes ($1.75), burgers, sandwiches, mochas ($1), and other fare. The visitors center also has dormitory-style lodging and kitchens for up to 39 people. The dorms have shared baths with hot water. Scientists and students get priority. Rates are $10 pp room, $23.50 with meals.

Getting There

A bus (tel. 506/645-6296) departs Santa Elena for the reserve at 6:15 a.m., 7:15 a.m., 11 a.m., and 1:15 p.m. daily, returning at 6:30 a.m., 7:50 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:50 p.m., and 4 p.m. ($1 each way). Most hotels can arrange transportation. A taxi from Santa Elena should cost about $5 one-way, but there are reports of gouging. There’s parking.