Liberia, 26 kilometers north of Bagaces, is the provincial capital. It is also one of the country’s most intriguing historic cities, with charming aged structures made of blinding white ignimbrite, for which it is called the “White City.” There’s a rich simplicity, a purity to the surrounding landscape, to the craggy, penurious hills and the cubist houses sheathed in white light like a sort of celestial glow.

Many old adobe homes still stand to the south of the landscaped central plaza, with high-ceilinged interiors and kitchens opening onto classical courtyards. Old corner houses have doors—puertas del sol—that open on two sides to catch both morning and afternoon sun.

Many of the historic houses along Calle Real (Calle Central, between Avenidas Central/8) have been restored.

In addition to taking in the town, many visitors head outside of town to Africa Mía, Guanacaste's own African sarafi. Farther out, and not to be missed, Rincón de la Vieja National Park offers great opportunities for hiking and birding, and beautiful volcano views.

In town, the leafy plaza hosts a modern white church—Iglesia Imaculada Concepción de María—and older town hall flying the Guanacastecan flag.

The Museo de Sabanero (tel. 506/666-0135, 9 a.m.–noon and 1–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 1–4 p.m. Sun., free), housed in the Casa de Cultura, three blocks south of the plaza on Calle 1, honors the local cowboy tradition with saddles and other sabanero memorabilia. The Casa de Cultura is a pretty colonial-era building that is a perfect example of a structure with doors on each corner. A statue also honors the sabaneros in the central median along Avenida Central at Calle 10.

At the far end of Avenida Central, also known as Avenida 25 Julio, is La Ermita La Agonía (tel. 506/666-0107, open 2:30–3:30 p.m. daily; at other times open by request) dating from 1854 with a stuccoed adobe exterior, simple adornments, and a small Religious Art Museum.

Behind the church is Parque Rodolfo Salazar, surrounded by old cottages. Finally, just one block east of the central plaza, is the old city jail, still in use, with barred windows and towers at each corner.

La Chácara Hacienda & Fiesta Brava (tel. 506/350-1627, fax 506/666-8238, www.haciendalachacara.com, $42 half-day tour), 2.5 kilometers west of town, is a working cattle ranch with cowboy museum, horseback riding, and rodeo and bull-riding show, plus trail rides.

Getting There

SANSA and NatureAir offer scheduled daily service between San José and Daniel Oduber International Airport (tel. 506/668-1032), 12 kilometers west of town. In addition to charter airlines, the following airlines serve the airport: American Airlines, Continental, Delta; United; and US Airways. The airport has a bank, and immigration (tel. 506/668-1014) and customs (tel. 506/668-1068).

Buses (tel. 506/256-9552) depart San José for Liberia from Calle 14, Avenidas 1/3, hourly 6 a.m.–8 p.m. (four hours, $4.50). Buses (tel. 506/663-1752) depart Puntarenas for Liberia from Avenida Central, Calle 4 nine times daily (2.5 hours, $2.25). Buses from Nicoya and Santa Cruz depart for Liberia hourly, 5 a.m.–8 p.m.

There are three gas stations at the junction of Highway 1 and Avenida Central.