Martina Wegener prepares ceviche and cooks up fresh seafood, burgers, pastas, and fajitas at Café Pura Vida (tel. 506/8720-0801, www.puravidadrakebay.com, 8 A.M.–8 P.M. daily), in the heart of the village. You sit on tree stumps beneath shade in her garden.

For cheap local fare, head to Soda Mar y Bosque (tel. 506/8313-1366, 6:30 A.M.–9 P.M. daily) serving bargain-priced gallo pinto and casados (set lunches).

In 2010, an Argentinian couple opened the rustic Buenaventura (tel. 506/2775-2339, 6 A.M.–8 P.M. daily), serving great breakfast, homemade pizza, and Argentinian empanadas, plus cappuccinos and white milk chocolates. It has live trova and tango (including classes).

Two recommended hotel-restaurant standouts in Agujitas are Jinetes de Osa (tel. 506/2231-5806, www.costaricadiving.com), with a rustic but attractive open-air bar that serves Costa Rican cuisine as well as great burgers and hot dogs; and Águila de Osa Inn (tel. 506/2296-2190 or 8840-2929, www.aguiladeosainn.com, 7 A.M.–9 P.M. daily, $5–18), where more gourmet fare includes sashimi with ginger and horseradish sauce.