The Osa Peninsula
Corcovado National Park
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Corcovado National Park—the Amazon of Costa Rica—is the largest stronghold of Pacific coastline primary forest, which has been all but destroyed from Mexico to South America. Its 41,788 hectares encompass eight habitats, from mangrove swamp and jolillo palm grove to montane forest. The park protects more than 400 species of birds (20 are endemic), 116 of amphibians and reptiles, and 139 of mammals—representing 10 percent of the mammals in the Americas on only 0.000101777 percent of the landmass.
Its healthy population of scarlet macaws (about 1,200 birds) is the largest concentration in Central America. Corcovado is also a good place to spot the red-eyed tree frog and enamel-bright poison-arrow frogs. Corcovado is one of only two places in the country harboring squirrel monkeys (the other is Manuel Antonio). It’s also one of the last stands in the world for the harpy eagle.
Four species of sea turtles—green, Pacific ridley, hawksbill, and leatherback—nest on the park’s beaches. And the park supports a healthy population of tapirs and big cats, which like to hang around the periphery of the Corcovado Lagoon.
Corcovado also has a large population of peccaries, a massive-necked razor-backed hog that grows to the size of a large hound. (The park’s mammal population—notably peccaries—is under intense pressure from illegal hunters.) Peccaries are gregarious and potentially ferocious; if attacked, you are advised to climb the nearest tree.
The Osa Peninsula bears the brunt of torrential rains April–December. It receives up to 400 centimeters per year. The driest months, January–April, are the best times to visit.
Hiking Trails
Corcovado has a well-developed trail system, though the trails are primitive and poorly marked. Several short trails (2–6 hours) make for rewarding half- or full-day hikes. Longer trails grant an in-depth backpacking experience in the rainforest. Allow three days to hike from one end of the park to the other.
From La Leona: It’s 15 kilometers to Sirena, following the beach most of the way. Allow up to eight hours. Beyond Salsipuedes Point, the trail cuts inland through the rainforest. Don’t try this at high or waning tide: You must cross some rocky points that are cut off by high tide. Don’t trust the ranger’s statements: Consult a tide table before you arrive. The hike from La Leona to the Madrigal waterfall is recommended.
From Sirena: A trail leads northeast to Los Patos via Corcovado Lagoon. Another trail—only possible at low tide—leads to the San Pedrillo Ranger Station (23 kilometers). There are three rivers to wade. The trick is to reach the RÃo Sirena and slightly shallower RÃo Llorona before the water is thigh-deep. Here, watch for the crocodiles upstream. Don’t let me put you off; dozens of hikers follow the trail each week. Halfway, the trail winds steeply into the rainforest and is often slippery. The last three kilometers are along the beach. The full-day hike takes you past La Llorona, a 30-meter-high waterfall that cascades spectacularly onto the beach.
From Los Patos: The trail south climbs steeply for six kilometers before flattening out for the final 14 kilometers to the Sirena Research Station. The trail is well marked but narrow, overgrown in parts, and has several river crossings where it is easy to lose the trail on the other side. You must wade. Be especially careful in rainy season, when you may find yourself hip-deep. There are three small shelters en route. A side trail will take you to Corcovado Lagoon. Allow up to eight hours. Another trail leads from Los Patos to Los Planes.
Accommodations
Basic bunkhouses with foam mattresses (but no sleeping bags or linens) are available at each of the ranger stations ($5 pp; reservations are essential via the Corcovado park headquarters in Puerto Jiménez), which have showers and water. Rangers will cook meals by prior arrangement ($5 breakfast, $7 lunch and dinner), but you have to supply your own food.
Costa Rican Association of Community-based Rural Tourism (ACTUAR, tel. 506/248-9470, www.actuarcostarica.com) arranges accommodation at Tesoro Verde, a lovely all-wood lodge run by a local women’s cooperative. Lodging costs $33–37 per person, and multi-day packages with hiking and other activities are offered.
Camping is allowed only at ranger stations ($2). Rangers can radio ahead to the various stations within the park and book you in for dinner and a tent spot. No-see-ums (pesky microscopic flies you’ll not forget in a hurry) infest the beaches and come out to find you at dusk. Take a watertight tent, a mosquito net, and plenty of insect repellent. You can rent tents and stoves in Puerto Jiménez from Escondido Trex or Osa Army & Navy.
Getting There
The park has three entry points: La Leona, on the southeast corner near Carate; Los Patos, on the northern perimeter; and San Pedrillo, at the northwest corner, 18 kilometers south of Drake Bay. You can hike or fly into the park headquarters at Sirena, midway between La Leona and San Pedrillo. There’s also a remote ranger station at Los Planes, on the northern border midway between San Pedrillo and Los Patos. All are linked by trails. Entrance costs $8 ($17 for a five-day pass).
You can charter an air-taxi to fly you to Sirena from Puerto Jiménez with Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi ($110).
A colectivo truck (tel. 506/837-3120) runs daily from Puerto Jiménez to Carate at 6 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. You can also rent a jeep-taxi ($60 per carload).
Boats from Marenco and Drake Bay will take you to either San Pedrillo or Sirena.
© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Costa Rica, 6th Edition
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