From Conte, a bumpy potholed road clambers over the hills south of Zancudo and drops to Punta Pilón and fishing hamlet of Pavones, a legend in the surfing world for possessing one of the longest waves in the world—more than a kilometer on a good day. The waves are at their best May–November, during rainy season, when surfers flock for the legendary very fast and very hollow tubular left. Riptides are common and swimmers should beware.

South from Pavones, the dirt road crosses the Río Claro and follows the dramatically scenic and rocky coast about five kilometers to the tiny community of Punta Banco. About two kilometers south of Punta Banco you reach the end of the road. From here, the Peninsula de Burica sweeps southeast 50 kilometers to Punta Burica along a lonesome stretch of coast within the mountainous Reserva Indígena Guaymí.

Martial arts enthusiasts can sign up for the Chen Taiji Academy (tel. 305/931-0918), which offers workshops and summer retreats. And The Yoga Farm (no tel., www.yogafarmcostarica.org), above Punta Banco on the rough dirt road to the Guaymí reserve, offers yoga retreats.

Pavones is pretty dead in low season (May–November).

Getting There

A private airstrip allows direct access to Tiskita by chartered plane (55 min. from San José).

Buses depart Golfito for Pavones daily.

A private water-taxi charter from Golfito will cost about $65 one-way. A jeep taxi from Golfito to Pavones will cost about $50.