Explore Costa Rica
Pura Vida: Offbeat Costa Rica
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You don’t have to be in Limón province’s Cahuita or Puerto Viejo more than five seconds to figure that the Caribbean coast draws a high proportion of tattooed, tie-dyed travelers intent on savoring (and contributing to) an offbeat way of life. The offbeat trend is such an important component of Costa Rica's tourism that most major towns throughout the country now cater to this no-frills, relaxed and freewheeling style of travel that eschews rigid planning.
In addition to the surfers and backpackers one would expect to find in the offbeat scene, a more sophisticated, even moneyed, crowd has become part of the genre. Yoga camps, spiritual centers, and even communes are springing up like mushrooms on a damp log. One of the beauties of Costa Rica is that it offers options for a pampered, deluxe experience along with the no-frills, budget-oriented offbeat experience, and travelers can mix and match according to whim.
Day 1
After arriving at Juan SantamarÃa International Airport, transfer to the Terminal Caribe for a bus to Cahuita for two days of relaxing at this lazy Caribbean village.
Day 2
Consider a horseback ride along Playa Negra, and snorkeling at Cahuita National Park. Make the most of regional cuisine with dinner at Miss Edith’s.
Day 3
Head to Puerto Viejo, where your options include surfing, horseback riding, and hanging out; sun on the beach by day and kick it at Puerto Viejo’s hip and funky bars by night.
Day 4
Surfers will want to tackle Salsa Brava, the local wave. Others might want to explore Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, and even sign up for a kayak trip or dolphin safari.
Day 5
Return to San José and take a bus to the surfer’s village of Dominical.
Day 6
Surfers will no doubt want to check out the wave action while others visit nearby Hacienda Barú, where you can thrill to a canopy tour.
Days 7–9
Today, head to Reserva Biológica La Danta, in the Escaleras hills. Here, take a two-day hike into the mountains to spend a night with a campesino (peasant) family.
Day 10
Return to Dominical and take a bus to San Isidro and thence to San Gerardo de Rivas in the RÃo Chirripó Valley, a Shangri-la good for spotting quetzals. You’ll want to pack some warm clothes.
Day 11
Begin your hike in Chirripó National Park, accompanied by a guide. You’ll overnight near the mountain summit.
Day 12
Up early for the hike to the Chirripó summit, Costa Rica’s highest mountain. Congratulations! After time to enjoy the thrill, return to San Gerardo de Rivas, where you can overnight.
Days 13–15
Take a bus to Buenos Aires, from where a Jeep-taxi can deliver you to Durika Biological Reserve, a well-run commune deep in the mountains on the edge of La Amistad International Park.
Day 16
Take a public bus to San Isidro and from there to San José for your flight home.
© Christopher P. Baker from Moon Costa Rica, 6th Edition
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