The 800-hectare Los Angeles Cloud Private Biological Forest Reserve & Adventure Park (tel. 506/461-0643, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. daily) provides the same experience as Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve without the crowds. It begins at 700 meters’ elevation and tops out at 1,800 meters (when the clouds clear you can see Volcán Arenal).

The hills are covered with thick cloud forest, with the calls of howler monkeys emanating from its shrouded interior. Bird species include bellbirds, trogons, and aricaris. Laureles trees have been planted to lure quetzals. Three species of monkeys abound, and other mammals such as ocelots, jaguars, and jaguarundis are present.

Two short trails (1.5 km and 2 km) have wooden walkways with non-slip surfaces. A third, hard-hiking trail (plan on 6–9 hours) descends past waterfalls and natural swimming pools.

A zipline canopy tour ($42) features 10 treetop platforms, and guided horseback rides ($15 per hour), and birding and nature hikes ($24–55) are offered. No bags are allowed on the trail, as fanatical horticulturists have been stealing orchids.

The reserve is accessed via the superb Villablanca Cloud Forest Hotel & Spa (tel. 506/461-3000, fax 506/461-0302, www.villablanca-costarica.com), which has its own manicured, well-signed trails into its El Silencio de los Angeles reserve, an extension of the Los Angeles forest reserve. Various guided hikes ($24–55) are offered, as are self-guided hikes. While here, be sure to visit La Mariana Wedding Chapel, with a ceiling inlaid with painted ceramic tiles on the theme of Latin American religious virgins!