This splendid nature and wildlife park (tel. 506/2482-2720, www.waterfallgardens.com, 8:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m. daily, $25 adults, $15 students and children), at Montaña Azul, about four kilometers north of Vara Blanca, features trails through a soaring hangar-size butterfly cage (a climate-controlled butterfly dome was being built at last visit).

There’s also a hummingbird garden, a serpentarium (snakes), an aviary, a marvelous walk-in ranarium (frogs), plus trout lake, and orchid houses, all accessed by concrete trails that lead along the river to four waterfalls. Standing on the viewing platform at the Templo Fall, you’re pummeled by spray blasted from the base of the fall.

Continuing downriver, a metal staircase that clings to the cliffside descends to the Magía Blanca (the largest cascade), Encantada, and the La Paz falls—a pencil-thin, roadside fall that attracts Ticos en masse on weekends. It’s a daunting climb back, but shuttles back to the hotel are offered from the roadside trail exit.

A recent addition, the Casita de la Paz re-creates a traditional farmhouse. The restaurant has a superb buffet plus marvelous views. Birding tours are offered. Last admission is 4 p.m.