This offbeat village (pop. 3,000), 45 kilometers south of Puerto Limón and one kilometer east of Highway 36, is an in-vogue destination for the young backpacking crowd and others for whom an escapist vacation means back to basics.

Cahuita is no more than two parallel dirt streets crossed by four rutted streets overgrown with grass, with ramshackle houses spread apart. The village is totally laid-back and not for those seeking luxuries. What you get is golden and “black” sand beaches backed by coconut palms, an offshore coral reef (now severely depleted), and an immersion in Creole culture.

One of the most endearing aspects of life on the southern Caribbean coast is the large number of Rastafarians, with their broad smiles, dreadlocks, and a lifestyle that revolves around reggae, rasta, and—discreetly—reefer. Bob Marley is God in Cahuita. Even the postmaster has dreads.

Cahuita has struggled to recover from a lingering negative perception fed by a brief series of robberies and a murder in 1994 at Estrella. The bad publicity stuck; for several years, tourists and Ticos shunned Cahuita. The police force has been beefed up (there’s even a police checkpoint on the main road north of Cahuita; every vehicle is searched). At last visit, Cahuita had regained its popularity, although it still draws predatory elements.

The locals run a committee to police the community, keep the beaches clean, and generally foster improvements. And ever so slowly, Cahuita’s dirt roads are being paved. In 2006, the first shopping mall and bank arrived.

North of Cahuita village, Playa Negra is a black-sand beach that runs for several miles. Cahuita’s more famous beach, Playa Blanca, is a two-kilometer-long scimitar of golden sand that stretches south from the village along the shore of Cahuita National Park. Beware riptides!

A second pale-sand beach lies farther along, beyond the rocky headland of Punta Cahuita; it is protected by an offshore coral reef and provides safer swimming in calmer waters. Theft is a problem on the beach; do not leave possessions unattended.

Most visitors come to Cahuita specifically for the sleepy, laid back vibe. But there are plenty of active pursuits available. Among them, the main attraction is Cahuita National Park.

Turística Cahuita (tel. 506/755-0071, fax 506/755-0069, dltacb [at] racsa [dot] co [dot] cr) and Cahuita Tours (tel. 506/755-0000, cahuitatours [at] yahoo [dot] com), in the village center, offer a panoply of tours and activities, including snorkeling trips, bird-watching, fishing, dolphin-watching, horseback rides, and trips further afield.

Mister Big J’s (tel. 506/755-0328) also offers fishing and horseback rides.

Viewpoint Resort Hotel (tel. 560/750-8038, www.viewpoint-resorthotel.com), a private 30-acre nature park about four kilometers south of Cahuita, midway between Cahuita and Hone Creek, offers magnificent views up and down the coast from a hilltop mirador amid forest; it’s a stiff hike uphill. Day guests get use of a small swimming pool and sundeck, an oversize chess game under a shade canopy, and hiking trails that lead into the forest. It has a shuttle service. Entrance costs $3, or $5 with use of the swimming pool.

Getting There

San José–Limón buses continue to Cahuita and onward to Puerto Viejo and Sixaola. Local buses depart Puerto Limón from Avenida 4, Calles 3/4, hourly 5 a.m.–6 p.m. daily (one hour, $1.25).

The nearest gas stations are at Penshurst and about 15 kilometers southeast of Bribrí. Several locals sell gas (petrol) from jerry cans.