The extreme southwest shore of the Nicoya Peninsula is one of the most remote coastal strips in Costa Rica. The beaches are beautiful and the coastal scenery at times sublime, though the driving is tricky.

South of Carrillo, the dirt road continues a few miles in good condition, then deteriorates to a mere trail in places. In the words of the old spiritual, there are many rivers to cross. The route can thwart even the hardiest 4WD in wet season, or after prolonged rains in dry season. For those who thrill to adventure, it’s a helluva lot of fun.

Don’t attempt the section south of Carrillo by ordinary sedan or at night, and especially not in wet season unless it’s unusually dry—many tourists have had to have their vehicles hauled out of rivers that proved impossible to ford.